Soulslinger. One of the Buttermilks’s most iconic problems. At V9 it is tops on the ticklist of many who aspire to climb hard problems, but cannot pull down on double digit testpieces like The Mandala (V12) or Stained Glass (V10). Like many of the problems at the Buttermilks, it has a convenient boulder adjacent to it that gets you in perfect position to take killer top-down photos.
Buttermilks: Soulslinger
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Buttermilks: Cave Problem
During my 2006 trip to Bishop, I spent a lot of rest time running around and fondling holds of testpieces like The Mandala. Who hasn’t? However, I couldn’t spend the hole trip mimicking sequences I would never need to know so eventually I had to climb. When I was done molesting the “holds” on The Buttermilker, made famous by Dave Graham in Dosage 1, I walked 10 feet up the hill to try Cave Problem (V4/5/6?).
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News & Notes: Get Outta Town Edition
News & Notes including Dave MacLeod, Buttermilks bouldering video, the 5.13ds of Rifle, Ty Landman and more…
News & Notes – 3/10/2008
Just an update on Beth Rodden’s new 5.14 trad route Meltdown. Big Up Productions was there filming her work on the route for the upcoming Dosage 5. Big Up shares their first hand takes on what went down including nuggets like, “After about 10 sessions of working it on top-rope Tommy was never able to […]
Lisa Rands Mandala Video
Lisa Rands doing the first female ascent of Sharma’s The Mandala (V12) at the Buttermilks. [youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fc5JuQIcJOE] More videos at TNF site
News & Notes – 2/21/08
Matt Birch recently repeated The Mandala Sit Start (V14) at the Buttermilks outside of Bishop, CA. By my count this is the problem’s 7th ascent. Wade David has photos posted from both qualifying and finals of the Adult ABS Nationals comp. That was a pretty sick lense he was rocking on Saturday night! Dave Graham […]
Hard, Unrepeated American Boulders
I thought it would be interesting to compile a list of hard (V14 and up) boulder problems that have not been repeated in North America. Thanks to everyone for help in compiling these problems (Most of these grades are pure speculation from outside observers): Nuclear War – V14 – Matt Bosley – Harriman State Park, […]
- Adam Taylor, Alex Megos, Alex Puccio, Andre Di Felice, Anthony Chertudi, Ashima Shiraishi, Bernd Zangerl, Brian Antheunisse, Brian Boyko, Brian Hedrick, Brion Voges, Carlo Traversi, Chris Schulte, Chris Sharma, Chris Webb Parsons, Christophe Maschelein, Cory French, Dan Beall, Daniel Woods, Dave Graham, Dave Wetmore, Elan Jonas Mcrae, Ethan Pringle, Giovanni Traversi, Gregor Peirce, Guillaume Glairon-Mondet, Isaac Caldiero, James Kassay, James Litz, Jason Kehl, Jesse Warren, Jim Merli, Johnny Goicoechea, Jon Cardwell, Jorg Verhoeven, Josh Muller, Kevin Jorgeson, Kevin Kuckovich, Luke Parady, Mark Heal, Matt Bosley, Matt Fultz, Matt Hong, Matt Wilder, Max Zolotukhin, Michael O'Rourke, Mirko Caballero, Nalle Hukkataival, Ned Feehally, Niccolò Ceria, Nick Duttle, Paul Robinson, Phil Schaal, Sachi Amma, Sam Davis, Sam Edwards, Sean McColl, Shawn Diamond, Simon Parton, Taylor McNeil, Thomas Betterton, Tim Clifford, Tim Doyle, Tony Lamiche, Toru Nakajima, Toshi Takeuchi, Ty Landman, Yves Gravelle, Zach Lerner
- Arkansas, Boulder Canyon, Bradley, Buttermilks, Clear Creek Canyon, Eldorado Canyon, Guanella Pass, Gunks, Happy Boulders, Hueco Tanks, Lilly Boulders, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Moe's Valley, Mt. Evans, Nicky's Boulders, RMNP, Rocktown, Rumney, Secret Garden, Squamish, Sylvan Lake, The Temple, Wild Basin
- Jared: Use to visit this site daily. Miss you Narc! Hope ...
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- Climbing Controversy: Behind the Decades-Long Conflict Roiling the Sport’s Elite - Swiss Cycles: […] the world’s first consensus 5.15b in 2...
- Climbing Controversy: Behind the Decades-Long Conflict Roiling the Sport’s Elite - Swiss Cycles: […] that they didn’t see repeats for decad...
- J: Two slings half inch webbing 24 inch sewn slings w...
- Animull89: So gnarly that he did that twice...I remember the ...
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