News & Notes – 2/21/08

News & Notes – 2/21/08

  • Matt Birch recently repeated The Mandala Sit Start (V14) at the Buttermilks outside of Bishop, CA. By my count this is the problem’s 7th ascent.
  • Wade David has photos posted from both qualifying and finals of the Adult ABS Nationals comp. That was a pretty sick lense he was rocking on Saturday night!
  • Dave Graham has added 2 more V13’s to the woods of Arkansas: Wood Grain Grippin’ and Chunk up the Deuce. He had this to say about the latter problem, “the worlds mage wind guided me through the endless open oceans of blocs, and led me to this one”. Very reminiscent of his interview this summer.
  • Jody Hansen has added her name to the very short list of women to have climbed a confirmed V12 when she did Rumble in the Jungle at Hueco Tanks, TX this week. It can’t be long before women are climbing V13 can it?? Of course Rumble was made famous by Chris Sharma in the film Free Hueco when he very eloquently described it as, “There’s…um…this roof…um…Rumble in the Jungle…um” or something like that.
  • I couldn’t possibly recap all that was featured, but Justin Jaeger has been unloading his old pictures onto his blogsite this week. My personal favorite was the post on his send of Super Gui (NOT V7) at Mt. Evans. Nice work sir! That problem looks so good.
  • While he waits for Suspension of Disbelief to thaw out, Paul Robinson added a new moderate classic to Eldorado Canyon when he did the FA of Resonated (V9). Now if only they would use the increased user fee this year to improve that road into Eldo!

Paul Robinson on the FA of Resonated (V9) in Eldorado Canyon, CO

Paul Robinson climbing Resonated in Eldorado Canyon

Photo: Andy Mann

  • has a great recap of the entire ABS Nationals weekend from the routesetter’s perspective. I raised a question in the comments about one of the problems at the comp having a jump start that seemed to stymie the shorter climbers. Be sure to check it out for head youth setter Molly Beard’s response which I think makes sense even if I don’t really count jump starting as much of a climbing skill. I also think that needs some sweet shirts like’s Mike Helt was wearing at Nationals this weekend…
  • MomentumVM has a video up of the Adult Open finals from Saturday night. I don’t think I saw very much footage of the top women though?
  • MoDump has video of Aaron Reynolds climbing the SoIll classic Body Karate (V9)
  • Mrs. Narc has a question she would like some help answering…
  • Keep up the support!

Posted In: American Bouldering Series, Bouldering, News, News & Notes
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6 Responses to News & Notes – 2/21/08

  1. Tony February 21, 2008 at 5:05 pm #

    Dave Graham is an ultimate wizard.

    GD Star Rating
  2. Nick February 21, 2008 at 10:05 pm #

    So I watched the ABS video, and on the men’s route 2…. what is that hold? I looked at it and thought, Why is that guy throwing for breasts???

    Just thought I’d share….

    GD Star Rating
  3. Climbing Narcissist February 22, 2008 at 6:19 am #

    They are actually dual tex SoIll holds. Check out the link below to see similar holds. Basically the “breasts” are a lightbulb shape sticking out of the hold.

    GD Star Rating
  4. peter February 23, 2008 at 8:14 am #

    so as far as wade’s gallery goes: let’s talk about how sean mccoll is freakin’ HUGE

    GD Star Rating
  5. Climbing Narcissist February 23, 2008 at 1:49 pm #

    rands is even more ripped…

    GD Star Rating


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