News & Notes – 3/10/2008

News & Notes – 3/10/2008

  • Just an update on Beth Rodden’s new 5.14 trad route Meltdown. Big Up Productions was there filming her work on the route for the upcoming Dosage 5. Big Up shares their first hand takes on what went down including nuggets like, “After about 10 sessions of working it on top-rope Tommy was never able to figure out the moves” and “Tommy considers it much harder than the other Yosemite 5.14s he’s done, including the Changing Corners pitch of The Nose and the crux pitch of Dihedral Wall”. Check out their post for the rest.

  • Jamie Emerson has come through in a big way with some pictures of Dave Graham’s unrepeated V15 From Dirt Grows Flowers in Chironico, Switzerland. Jamie describes it as a V13 crimping sequence to a V12 mantle. Sick and really sick. For me these are the first pictures I have seen of the problem. It doesn’t look (or sound) incredibly aesthetic at a glance but I will never climb V15 so it doesn’t really matter. It should be interesting to see what happens if Daniel Woods is able to put some time into the problem.

Dave Grahams From Dirt Grows Flowers V15 in Chironico

Photo: B3Bouldering

  • Speaking of Dave Graham, he just updated his Pro Blog after who knows how many months. He is on his way back to Europe, and he explains in brief how he is actually tired of sport climbing. Also, Tim Kemple updated his blog and in it he explains how ping pong is cooler than climbing…in China.



  • Fresh off making Adult Finals at ABS Nationals, 15 year old Flannery Shay-Nemirow climbed Center Route (V10) at Morrison, CO for the probable first female ascent this past weekend. No love on spraysheet updates lately though!

Flannery Shay-Nemirow climbing Center Direct at Morrison, CO

Photo: Straight into yer face lam

  • In good form after recently repeating Dreamtime (V14), Gabriele Moroni was in Bishop recently where he repeated Mandala Sit Start (V14) in short order. He is the 8th person to climb this line. ‘Gabry’ also added a “painful” & “rough” V9/10 to the Fly Boy Boulder. It starts as for the classic Haroun and the Sea of Stories and goes up and right. Apparently he felt that this new V9/10 was harder than Haroun… which was originally graded V12 but seems to be ripe for the downgrade.
  • Christian Core has opened a possible V15 at the Antro dei Druidi, Potala di Varazze (Italy) that he has dubbed Gioia.

Christian Core move by move on his new problem, Gioia (V15)


Photo: Roberto Armando – PlanetMountain

  • Dani Andrada climbs another 5.14d. Somewhat interesting is that he bolted the route not that long ago, but his ascent is already the route’s 4th (Usobiaga, Marin, Ondra).
  • And finally, more evidence how far behind America is in the world of sport climbing: 12 year olds sending 5.14c in Europe

Posted In: Bouldering, Climbing Websites, News, News & Notes, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing
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7 Responses to News & Notes – 3/10/2008

  1. tbwilsonky March 10, 2008 at 10:48 pm #

    these posts are, as the kids say, “the bomb”. one-stop info shopping for the hard climbing junkie.


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  2. Gr8belayr March 11, 2008 at 8:03 am #

    Ok, so I might be completely off-base…but I just read Dave Grahams blog. Do major sponsorships come with a “Do Drugs Free” card? That was the most rambling piece of whatever I’ve read lately. It sounded more like a Facebook Wall post than a blog designed to keep a Pro in touch with average climbers. Oh well, I guess I just have to assume I’m too old or the fact that I doubt I have ever climbed a V1 disqualifies me from being able to understand the blog about the gypsy climber lifestyle.

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    • Climbing Narcissist March 11, 2008 at 2:42 pm #

      His previous blogs, while containing a stream of consciousness vibe, were never this spazz-tastic. It was definitely a bit hard to read which is unfortunate because Dave Graham has a lot he could share with the climbing community as a whole.

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  3. Gr8belayr March 12, 2008 at 8:42 am #

    Ok, well at least I  didn’t just suddenly un-learn English and the problem is all in my head.
    Which would be okay, I guess…I’m just not sure there is room for more at this time 🙂

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  4. Tony March 14, 2008 at 3:44 pm #

    Maybe sarah’s contest idea wasn’t so bad eh?

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  5. Climbing Narcissist March 14, 2008 at 3:46 pm #

    The thought of it just made me spit up a bit in my mouth.  It would be pretty funny, but I’m not sure how many people would participate.

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  6. Tony March 15, 2008 at 7:32 am #

    U noez I would…peep it.

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