Archive | October, 2011
Schubert, Ernst Win 2011 Lead Climbing World Cup In Boulder

Schubert, Ernst Win 2011 Lead Climbing World Cup In Boulder

Results from the Lead World Cup held over the weekend at Boulder, Colorado’s Movement Climbing & Fitness

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Another Repeat Of The Wheel Of Life

According to his 8a scorecard Australia’s Ben Cossey has repeated Dai Koyamada’s The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia. Cossey registered the ascent as V141, and in response to posts on the Australian forum Chockstone he had this to say about the grade:

V16 represents the highest difficulty yet climbed by humans, even then these few problems are not confirmed. V15 takes the very best climbers a massive amount of effort to climb and yet there are not much more than a handful of confirmed ones in the world.
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The Wheel doesn’t really have any one move that you couldn’t find on, say, a V7.
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The hardest moves on it are in my opinion on Sleepy Hollow and yes, you have to bone down for sure because you’ve just climbed from the bottom but they aren’t crazy hard and certainly not in terms of V16 or even V15 hard.

He then goes on into more detail about the history of the problem, gives his opinion on kneebars and talks about the difficulty of the individual boulder problems that comprise Wheel Of Life.
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  1. The problem was first opened at a suggested grade of V16
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Video Friday – 10/7/2011

Video Friday – 10/7/2011

The most popular videos from the past week…

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2nd Ascent Of Twenty Four Karats (5.14c)

Adam Taylor has done the likely 2nd ascent of Jonathan Siegrist’s Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge.  While generally preferring to live life under the online climbing radar, Taylor has made news in previous years for other sends in the Red including his FA of Golden Ticket (5.14d) and his 2nd ascent of Pure Imagination (5.14d), another route first done by Jonathan Siegrist.

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Lead World Cup This Weekend In Boulder

Lead World Cup This Weekend In Boulder

This weekend Boulder, CO, and more specifically Movement Climbing & Fitness, will play host to the first lead climbing World Cup held on American soil in over 20 years.

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2011 Triple Crown Bouldering Series:  Hound Ears Results

2011 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Hound Ears Results

The 2011 Triple Crown Bouldering series got underway last weekend at Hound Ears, NC

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Swiss Bouldering News From Koyamada, Ondra & Woods

Swiss Bouldering News From Koyamada, Ondra & Woods

Despite some challenging conditions Dai Koyamanda, Adam Ondra and Daniel Woods have all been getting it done on the boulders of Switzerland of late.

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