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Video Friday – 10/14/2011

Video Friday – 10/14/2011

Posted October 14, 2011 at 9:00 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Two weekends in October down, three precious weekends to go. Do you know where your project is?

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Ramon Julian Onsights 5.14c In Rifle

Posted October 13, 2011 at 11:14 am · Comments { 11 } ·

After a disappointing finish in the World Cup in Boulder, Ramon Julian Puigblanque made the drive west to Rifle for a short trip and things went just a little better for him there:

On day two, Julian onsighted Living in Fear (5.13d), shaking out in the worst possible places, and making the super-sustained testpiece look like 5.10, according to witnesses. After onsighting Living, Julian returned to the Wicked Cave, and surprised himself by onsighting The Crew (5.14c), one of the hardest routes in the canyon. The performance surprised even Julian, who said that it was a true “a muerte” fight to the end. Some of the hardest moves on the route are right at the top, and are said to be especially hard if you’re short.

Rock & Ice has the rest of the details.

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Nat Geo Blog Catches Up With Chris Sharma

Nat Geo Blog Catches Up With Chris Sharma

Posted October 13, 2011 at 9:35 am · Comments { 3 } · Photo: Boone Speed

The Nat Geo Adventure blog checks in with Chris Sharma

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News & Notes – 10/12/2011

News & Notes – 10/12/2011

Posted October 12, 2011 at 9:00 am · Comments { 1 } · Photo: Royal Robbins on the Salathé Wall in 1961

News & Notes from Lynn Hill, Joe Kinder, Sasha DiGiulian, Reno climbing walls, 50 year anniversaries and more…

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The Not Worth It Boulders

Posted October 11, 2011 at 2:38 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

While the discovery and development of new boulders in Wyoming and elsewhere has gotten a lot of attention of late, it’s instructive to remember that many times the quest for new rock and new problems doesn’t always work out like we hope:

Honestly, while I would never like to return to the Not Worth It Boulders, it was totally worth going up there the first time to spend some time with friends.  It has helped me to truly appreciate all of the hard work and vision needed for the people who have developed the climbing areas that I get to visit.
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  I have spent many hours drooling over guide books wishing that I could have been the first person to climb some of the routes, but now I realize that I am pretty lucky to have all of the hard work done for me.
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Interview With Mayan Smith-Gobat After Freeing Salathé Wall

Interview With Mayan Smith-Gobat After Freeing Salathé Wall

Posted October 11, 2011 at 8:27 am · Comments { 8 } · Photo: Mayan Smith-Gobat by Kyle Smith

An interview with New Zealand’s Mayan Smith-Gobat after she freed the Salathé Wall on El Capitan

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Schubert, Ernst Win 2011 Lead Climbing World Cup In Boulder

Schubert, Ernst Win 2011 Lead Climbing World Cup In Boulder

Posted October 10, 2011 at 8:45 am · Comments { 12 } ·

Results from the Lead World Cup held over the weekend at Boulder, Colorado’s Movement Climbing & Fitness

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Another Repeat Of The Wheel Of Life

Posted October 7, 2011 at 12:00 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

According to his 8a scorecard Australia’s Ben Cossey has repeated Dai Koyamada’s The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia. Cossey registered the ascent as V141, and in response to posts on the Australian forum Chockstone he had this to say about the grade:

V16 represents the highest difficulty yet climbed by humans, even then these few problems are not confirmed. V15 takes the very best climbers a massive amount of effort to climb and yet there are not much more than a handful of confirmed ones in the world.
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The Wheel doesn’t really have any one move that you couldn’t find on, say, a V7.
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The hardest moves on it are in my opinion on Sleepy Hollow and yes, you have to bone down for sure because you’ve just climbed from the bottom but they aren’t crazy hard and certainly not in terms of V16 or even V15 hard.

He then goes on into more detail about the history of the problem, gives his opinion on kneebars and talks about the difficulty of the individual boulder problems that comprise Wheel Of Life.
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  1. The problem was first opened at a suggested grade of V16 ↩
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