Archive | September, 2013

5.14 On Mt. Hooker

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20 miles from the road, David Alfrey, Nik Berry and Mason Earle put up a free route on Wyoming’s Mt. Hooker with difficulties up to 5.14a:

“The rock is incredible for alpine stone, and for that matter it would be great rock anywhere,” Berry said. “The temps were perfect for sending, and [Hooker’s north face] was not as cold as people say.”

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Sendtember In Full Effect On The Front Range

Sendtember In Full Effect On The Front Range

Busy times along the Front Range as hard sends are going down at Rifle, Guanella Pass and Mt. Evans from the likes of Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Matty Hong and Jimmy Webb

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Bel Succcesso

Final update from Dave MacLeod on his and Alan Cassidy’s attempts to climb Bellavista in the Italian Dolomites:

However, we had one day left. I just wanted to get the gear back and get home. Everything  was wrong and I felt a bit fed up to be honest. My ankle hurt on the walk-in, I couldn’t do certain movements with it on the rock, I’d had my fill of climbing wet rock or frozen rock, we’d not had even one good day to try it properly. Worst of all, it was baltic.

And Alan Cassidy on their last day’s efforts:

I was desperately blowing warm breath on my hands with every single move, pressing them against the warm flesh of the back of my neck and getting none the warmer. About 15m up at peg 3, I had a little moment, outwardly expressing my dissatisfaction with where I was:

– “It’s F**%$%^ so cold”

– “I don’t want to be here”

– “F%^* sake, this is so $%&t, nothing gets my hands warm”

– “these pegs are all so F%&*@£$”

They sent, obviously.

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Taming The Cobra

Nice piece by Brits Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker about their successful ascents of Sonnie Trotter’s Cobra Crack (5.14-) in Squamish, BC:

So where does this leave us, three weeks into a three-and-half week long trip? Was our training any good? Did The Cobra live up to expectations and did the Squamish Weather Gods smile down on us?
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1. I think so.
2. Oh yes.
3. We are forever in your debt.

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Video Friday – 9/20/2013

Video Friday – 9/20/2013

The highest rated videos of the past week

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Reel Rock 8 Kicks Off Tonight

Reel Rock 8 Kicks Off Tonight

Reel Rock 8 kicks off tonight in Boulder, CO with the
premier of this year’s film as well as a live interview show with
Reel Rock guests!

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Sender Films’ Reel Rock 8: Peaks Behind The Screens

Great in depth piece in Boulder Weekly about Sender Films, Big Up Productions and the Reel Rock Film Tour which kicks off its 8th edition on September 19th.  Tons of great nuggets about both companies, how the tour got started and how it has evolved.  I especially liked this anecdote about working with Alex Honnold:

Mortimer, a day after meeting with television networks in Los Angeles, says, “In L.A., people are like, what’s your contract with Alex [Honnold]? … And I’m like, ‘Dude, he’s my buddy, he’s sleeping on my couch right now.’ And they’re like, ‘Geez, he’s gonna fuck you, you gotta get a contract.
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’ … And we’re like, ‘No, we kinda come from this world and we’ve shared a rope together and we trust each other,’ and so I think we’re so uniquely positioned with these relationships with these athletes — and then our ability to tell these stories and work with the best filmers — to do this.”

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