News & Notes – 05/26/2010

News & Notes – 05/26/2010

After an endless stream of frustrating injuries I’ve somehow managed to climb on real rock 4 of the last 5 weekends with another trip to the Red River Gorge in the plans for the coming 3 day weekend.  The main ingredient in this mostly pain-free stretch has been my avoidance of bouldering of any kind which is bad because I really like bouldering, but it’s also good because climbing anything is a good feeling at this point.  Remember kids:  climbing anything is better than climbing nothing at all.  Trust me on that one.

Now that we have that pearl of wisdom out of the way here are some News & Notes:

  • Tune in this Friday at either 11:00 AM or 1:30 PM EST (depends on the weather apparently) to catch live coverage of the women’s qualifying round for the Bouldering World Cup in Vienna, Austria where Alex Johnson is scheduled to compete.  Vienna World Cup Live Stream
  • Jonathan Siegrist and Paige Claasen just wrapped up a pretty decent 2 week trip to Oregon’s Smith Rocks.  In addition to a handful of 5.12 and 5.13 onsights Siegrist managed to put down 5.14a’s Bad Man, Scarface, Mr. Yuck, Chemical Ali and To Bolt Or Not To Be in short order.  Claasen had an excellent trip as well with sends of White Wedding (5.13d) and Churning In The Wake (5.13a) and flashes  of Darkness at Noon (5.13a) and Kings of Rap (5.12d).  Check out Siegrist’s latest blog entries for the full story.

Jonathan Siegrist on To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) at Smith Rocks State Park

Photo:  Andy Mann

Cell Block Six from Sean Stewart on Vimeo.

  • There’s something oddly amusing about seeing huge boulders in RMNP almost completely buried in snow
  • Alex Honnold is teaming up with Ueli Steck, who is best known for his fast solos of big alpine routes in Europe, to make a run at the speed record for climbing The Nose on El Capitan held by Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama.  Here’s a short clip of Honnold and Steck working out the King Swing roughly half way up the wall.  What do people think about these speed climbing records.  Do you care??

Alex and Uli speed climbing The Nose on 5.20.10 from Chris Falkenstein on Vimeo.

  • The 2010 Reel Rock Tour filmmaking contest is still going on with entries dues by July 20th:

The 2010 REEL ROCK Filmmaking Competition is on.  We want your best 2 minute climbing-related film. This year there are no categories.  The best entries will be posted online this summer, and we’ll award two prizes – an Audience Award as determined by online voting, and the Judges’ Choice Award, determined by the filmmakers of the REEL ROCK Tour

The winners will be announced at the Boulder premiere Sept.16th, 2010, and will be featured on the tour.  Winning filmmakers will win mega prize packages from our title sponsors, Windstopper and The North Face, including outerwear, tents, sleeping bags, and the works, and supporting sponsors Petzl and Evolv are throwing down climbing gear and shoes.  We also have two new sponsors this year who are helping to sweeten the pot.  Sterling Rope makes the lightest, best-handling climbing ropes in the world, and they’re throwing two of em into the mix.  And Goal0 is an exciting new company making rugged, renewable power solutions for adventurers around the world.  They’re offering a Sherpa Adventure Kit, which is the perfect way for all you filmmakers out there to keep your cameras and laptops charged while out on a shooting expedition.   And if all that gear is not enough enticement, we’re also giving $500 cash to each winner.  So get out there and make some magic!

Submission deadline for the competition is July 20.  Check out the http://www.reelrocktour.com/ site for full rules and to watch last year’s winning films.

Posted In: Access, Bouldering, News, News & Notes, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Videos, World Cup
Tags:
Climbers: , , , , , , , , , , ,
Areas: , , , , ,

Subscribe

Subscribe to the RSS feed to receive updates, and follow us on Twitter & Facebook

21 Responses to News & Notes – 05/26/2010

  1. AB May 26, 2010 at 9:20 am #

    Re: cell block six … is it that simon doesn’t use chalk? :)

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
    • Narc May 26, 2010 at 9:22 am #

      Yes! How is this possible at the RED of all places!

      GD Star Rating
      loading...
  2. Adam May 26, 2010 at 10:31 am #

    maybe he has no sweat glands??? ectodermal displaysia

    looks like an endurance fest. the climbing doesn’t look that intricate but maybe it’s just me.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
    • Narc May 26, 2010 at 10:38 am #

      I think you just described 95% of the routes at the Red.

      GD Star Rating
      loading...
      • Adam May 29, 2010 at 7:26 am #

        true enough :)

        GD Star Rating
        loading...
  3. Doug Lipinski May 26, 2010 at 11:15 am #

    What! No bouldering!?! Heresy I say, heresy.

    At least you’re healthy.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  4. HMS May 26, 2010 at 12:37 pm #

    Think I spotted 2 green Climb-Tech Removable Bolts next to the bolts between 5 and 6 min.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
    • Adam May 29, 2010 at 7:27 am #

      I saw those too. Wonder why they’re there if no one clips them?

      GD Star Rating
      loading...
  5. Egghead May 26, 2010 at 1:04 pm #

    Re: Cell Block Six: that strange antique toy car thing at the beginning when he’s talking?

    Oh yeah, no chalk. Didn’t notice that. Looks like it was kinda cold out.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  6. Julian May 26, 2010 at 1:28 pm #

    Actually, there are three things:

    1) Hilariously lame fistbump
    2) No chalk
    3) Route that’s 30-40 times longer than is ideal

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  7. Andrew May 26, 2010 at 3:03 pm #

    I love Simon, he is the nicest guy.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  8. Dylan May 26, 2010 at 3:48 pm #

    Oh God, I want to go back to Midnight Surf so bad now. Considering the size of the holds on that route, I’d say its totally possible to do it without chalk if conditions are good. I was on Iniquity (not even close to sending, ftr), and didn’t use chalk, and as it was in the low 50′s and shady, I really didn’t feel the need. When my hands are cold they don’t sweat. I’d say something like 65 degrees is where I start wanting it (lower if I’m trying a single move over and over and getting it greasy).

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  9. Tom May 27, 2010 at 9:38 am #

    He’s using no chalk.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  10. Tom May 27, 2010 at 9:39 am #

    Oh, ninja’d big time.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  11. Rob May 27, 2010 at 11:45 am #

    Something else I noticed is the lack of rust on those nice shiny glue-in bolts. Unlike the typical rusted ones you typically clip and take huge whippers on at the Red.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  12. eddie May 27, 2010 at 6:30 pm #

    i see they edited out the no-hands rest and made him dyno instead of simply reaching between two massive jugs

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
  13. Ray June 1, 2010 at 11:41 am #

    The strange crunching sound his fingers make when he crimps?

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
    • Jon June 7, 2010 at 2:29 am #

      I still can’t tell if that’s been edited in or if his fingers are really that crunchy on crimps

      GD Star Rating
      loading...
  14. debi June 11, 2010 at 2:26 am #

    Hey,
    I totally agree with your statement climbing anything is better than climbing nothing at all.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Back to the blogs… « Acfree's Blog - June 1, 2010

    [...] 2, 2010 by Andrew Freeman Last summer, while on a climbing trip in Spain with Mike Foley and Max Zolotukhin, I first experimented with keeping a blog. That’s What She Said, which you [...]

  2. News & Notes ? 10/05/2010 | Budbarbee's Blog - October 7, 2010

    [...] News & Notes – 05/26/2010 [...]

Leave a Reply