- Joe Kinder is back on the road again after spending much of the first half of 2009 based in southern Utah. Recently he was up at Horne Lake near Vancouver, BC redpointing A.D.A.T.O (5.14b), Dinosaur Highway (5.14a) and Driven (5.14a).
- After moving to Utah from the Midwest, Brad Weaver is back in sport climbing shape as evidenced by a slew of quick redpoints at Maple Canyon. In recent weeks he has sent 5 5.13c, 2 5.13d, 2 5.14a and 2 5.14b.
- Speaking of Maple Canyon, 54 year old Chuck Odette has been climbing well there of late as well sending a couple of hard 5.13s/easy 5.14s. Check out this interesting, and at times funny, article from 2001 for more about the amazingly youthful looking Odette.
- Jonathan Siegriest did the 4th ascent of Primetime To Shine (5.14b) at Clear Creek Canyon, CO on his first attempt of this link-up of the cruxes of routes Primeval (5.13d/14a) and Shine (5.14a) which he had done previously.
- Deadpoint Magazine caught up with Andy Raether who has been keeping a pretty low profile
- Will Stanhope recently did the 5th ascent of Sonnie Trotter’s Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish, BC. More at his blog.
- Adam Ondra continued his mission to repeat old, unrepeated Alex Huber sport routes last week when he did Om (5.14d) at Endstal, Germany. PlanetMountain has a cool article where they talk to Huber about Ondra and the state of hard sport climbing.
- Lonnie Kauk blogs about life as Ron Kauk’s son
- A man wielding an ice pick robs Black Diamond, doesn’t find any diamonds
- Word on the street is that the marriage of Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell is over. While the interpersonal relationships of climbers is not normally appropriate for discussion on this blog, Beth and Tommy had built a pretty powerful brand around their being a climbing couple so the fact that they are no longer together seems like “news”. What couple will come along and pick up the torch? Chris & Daila, Joe & Colette…???
News & Notes – 06/24/2009
Posted In: News, News & Notes, Sport Climbing
Tags: PCI
Climbers: Adam Ondra, Alex Huber, Andy Raether, Beth Rodden, Brad Weaver, Chuck Odette, Joe Kinder, Jonathan Siegrist, Lonnie Kauk, Tommy Caldwell, Will Stanhope
Areas: Clear Creek Canyon, Endstal, Horne Lake, Maple Canyon, Squamish
3 Responses to News & Notes – 06/24/2009
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The Hardest Move Excerpt: Woods & Robinson At 2010 Vail World Cup
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The Hardest Move Excerpt: Woods & Robinson At 2010 Vail World Cup
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Hayden Kennedy Climbing Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)
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D$: When it's done by someone this sexy it is....
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colin: Great videos this week. So much for a productive m...
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Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
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Video Friday – 5/18/2012
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Mon Pote Assis (5.14a) By Heather Robinson
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When In Doubt Pack It Out
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Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
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News & Notes
Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of his attempts here.
When In Doubt Pack It Out
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.






Between the Beth & Tommy news and the recent Jon & Kate developments Mrs. Narc is a wreck!
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this is too bad. as a man married to a staunchly non-climbing wife, it can sometimes seem that relationships based on the “play together” principal would be devoid of at least one source of strife… but life is hard for everyone, in all walks. i hope they can each walk away without latent bitterness tainting their futures.
i think all the couple-based ads easily set up a number of quick ‘harmless’ jokes that i’m trying to leave unsaid and i hope others do as well.
hopefully this means that the alarcon/jv cali bouldering crew will be consistently one stronger so i can get some goddamn blog posts up in here.
or maybe it’s better with nothing on the radar. i’m slowly going mad in the office. not even billing tons of time to make me feel massive progression. updating models/templates in the down time. like changing the 0s in code. TPS report: FAIL.
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77% of all marriages fail. The percent rises to 81% if they marry before turning age 25.
5 out of 4 couples cheat on their spouse, and 97.8% of all statistics found on the internet are made up on the spot, 73% of the time.
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