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Dark Horse 2013 Series 4 Round 3 Highlights
Angie Payne’s Nemesis
I’ve been meaning to link to Angie Payne‘s blog for months now but for whatever reason I’ve never quite gotten around to it. After largely avoiding the online climbing world1 over the years, Payne has opened up on her blog with stories about her trip to Greenland with Ethan Pringle, her experiences in big competitions and her ongoing battle with Freaks of the Industry (V13) in RMNP. It’s this last topic that has most intrigued me, and while she unfortunately didn’t send the problem this season it was interesting to get some insight into her mindset:
Freaks is a nemesis that surpasses all nemeses I have ever had. This is not the first time I have invested multiple seasons in a boulder problem, but it is the first time I have experienced a mental battle of this magnitude.
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I have done every conceivable link on the boulder problem, save starting from one or two moves in, and I know I am capable of completing it.
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Yet, I have climbed to the end section of the problem more times than I’ll ever be able to count, only to fall at or a few moves past what is typically considered the linkage crux.
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I have tried countless mental approaches—getting angry, relaxing, letting my mind wander, repeating a mantra as I climb, screaming, rhythmic breathing, acting like my life depends on it, pretending I couldn’t care less about it, even drawing positive reminders on my arm—you name it, I have probably tried it. But the battle continues.
- Defined for the purposes of our story as either having a blog or having a scorecard ↩
2012 SBC Pro Highlights
2012 Teva Mountain Games: Vail Bouldering World Cup Final Results
The Vail Bouldering World Cup at the 2012 Teva Mountain Games took place over the weekend, and while it wasn’t the best weekend for the American contingent, it certainly didn’t lack for excitement. For the men it seemed as though Germany’s Jan Hojer was on his way to victory as he easily flashed the first […]
- Alex David Johnson, Alex Fritz, Alex Johnson, Alex Puccio, Angie Payne, Anna Stöhr, Austin Geiman, Carlo Traversi, Chauncenia Carroll, Cicada Jenerik, Daniel Woods, Delaney Miller, Ethan Pringle, Garrett Gregor, Guillaume Glairon-Mondet, Jakob Schubert, Jan Hojer, Jesse Youngwerth, Josh Larson, Josh Levin, Juliane Wurm, Kilian Fischhuber, Lizzy Asher, Matt Hong, Matt Wilder, Melanie Sandoz, Michael Bautista, Michael O'Rourke, Nina Williams, Rei Sugimoto, Sean McColl, Shauna Coxsey, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Tiffany Hensley, Tyler Youngwerth, Zach Lerner
2012 SCS National Championships Highlights
DiGiulian, Vorotnikov Win 2012 SCS Nationals
Results from the 2012 edition of SCS Nationals
Woods, Saurwein Win 2012 Hueco Rock Rodeo
It’s no secret to anyone that has read this site over the years that I enjoy climbing comps. And while I certainly enjoy indoor climbing comps, outdoor climbing comps are especially fascinating. Where indoor comps pit competitors against one another on one-off boulder problems, outdoor comps allow climbers to repeat problems they’ve already done and […]
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