I’ve been meaning to link to Angie Payne‘s blog for months now but for whatever reason I’ve never quite gotten around to it. After largely avoiding the online climbing world1 over the years, Payne has opened up on her blog with stories about her trip to Greenland with Ethan Pringle, her experiences in big competitions and her ongoing battle with Freaks of the Industry (V13) in RMNP. It’s this last topic that has most intrigued me, and while she unfortunately didn’t send the problem this season it was interesting to get some insight into her mindset:
Freaks is a nemesis that surpasses all nemeses I have ever had. This is not the first time I have invested multiple seasons in a boulder problem, but it is the first time I have experienced a mental battle of this magnitude.
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I have done every conceivable link on the boulder problem, save starting from one or two moves in, and I know I am capable of completing it.
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Yet, I have climbed to the end section of the problem more times than I’ll ever be able to count, only to fall at or a few moves past what is typically considered the linkage crux.
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I have tried countless mental approaches—getting angry, relaxing, letting my mind wander, repeating a mantra as I climb, screaming, rhythmic breathing, acting like my life depends on it, pretending I couldn’t care less about it, even drawing positive reminders on my arm—you name it, I have probably tried it. But the battle continues.
- Defined for the purposes of our story as either having a blog or having a scorecard ↩
I had the pleasure of watching Angie try this rig for several days at the end of the ’11 season (Mid-late October). Every go was a “This is it!” go. Sad to hear she didn’t put it down this year, but I complete confidence in her ability to finish it one of these days.
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