Archive | May, 2012

Keep It Simple

Sonnie Trotter provides five tips for getting better at climbing rooted in the following premise:

The worlds most accomplished sport climber and boulderer Adam Ondra has recently completed his first one arm chin up according to Planet Mountain.com.   This fact only reinforces what I (and dozens of other climbers and coaches) have said for years, the key to climbing hard is not in the arms at all.
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  It’s mostly in the fingers and core.

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Another Hard 5.14 FA By Daniel Woods In Clear Creek Canyon

Another Hard 5.14 FA By Daniel Woods In Clear Creek Canyon

Another one bites the dust for Daniel Woods in Clear Creek Canyon

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News & Notes – 5/9/2012

News & Notes – 5/9/2012

There’s so much happening these days in the world of climbing that even I’m having a hard time keeping up…

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Issues Of Race, Class And Gender In The 2011 Reel Rock Film Tour

Many thanks to the reader who passed along this article from the blog Girls Like Giants in which the writer, who I don’t think is what one would consider a “hardcore” climber, reflects on her impressions of the 2011 Reel Rock Film Tour:

To pretend that there is no race or gender in climbing is naive. And indeed, while I really enjoyed a lot of the films in the 2011 Tour, most of them would reinforce gender stereotypes about the climbing world: nary a woman to be seen, except a few that hang around the camps of the kooky guys…

…snip…

It’s strange, trying to be ideologically savvy while watching Ashima climb in the midst of all these other climbing videos. You don’t want to point out her gender or her race – it seems somehow belittling to do so.  She’s just an athlete, I want to say, doing what all climbers do, but better. But the subtext just doesn’t go away.  All the while you’re aware that she’s a nine year old girl, she’s urban, she’s Japanese. These things make her even awesomer as a climber, right, because they’re the things she has to fight against.
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But…you’re not supposed to notice them. Watching this rock climbing film just made me incredibly conscious of how difficult it is to navigate race, gender, and other conditions shaping our lives.
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Video Friday – 5/4/2012

Video Friday – 5/4/2012

I find a new way to injure myself and the top videos from the past week

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Climber Who Doesn’t Care If You Know About It Climbs New V14 In Connecticut

Ty Landman has apparently done a project of his out in Connecticut that could be in the V14 range.  Just don’t tell him I posted about it.
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 Please.  He hates this stuff:

One of the hardest aspects [of climbing] is dealing with the scene, all the talking about climbing and who’s doing what, you know. I hate that stuff. And that’s why I would never climb professionally again, because I don’t enjoy talking about all the climbs I’ve done. That’s why I respect people at the limit of the sport who don’t feel the need to report everything they do.

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Dave Graham Repeats Paint It Black (V15) & Establishes Several Other Hard Problems

Dave Graham Repeats Paint It Black (V15) & Establishes Several Other Hard Problems

Dave Graham has been keeping busy in Colorado

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