News & Notes – 6/1/2011

News & Notes – 6/1/2011

Somehow we went all of May without a News & Notes update???


  • According to his 8a scorecard Ethan Pringle has done the 2nd ascent of Le Cadre Nouvelle Version, a 5.14d in Céüse, France.
  • Cedric Lachat and Nina Caprez did the 2nd and 3rd ascent of the multipitch Délicatessen in Corsica that has difficulties up to 5.13d.  This report on Caprez’s blog has some great pictures of the route as well as some pictures of another beautiful looking route, Tom et je ris (5.14a) in France’s Verdon Gorge.
  • Carlo Traversi established a new V13 called Flux For Life last week in Colorado’s latest hotspot, Endovalley.  In true Colorado fashion the problem already has 4 repeats by the likes of Daniel Woods, Jon Cardwell, Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges.
  • Speaking of Webb & Voges, they both repeated Dave Graham’s proposed Endovalley V14 Glow In The Dark Estrellas.  New beta was found that brought the grade down to V11 although Webb comments that, “What dave climbed is def v14…”
  • Simon Carter has a report complete with quality photos of Lee Cossey’s FA of Sneaky Snake (5.14b) at the incredible Taipan Wall in the Grampians.
  • Black Diamond has a report from Ines Papert about her repeat of Super Cirill, a 600+ ft. trad route with difficulties up to mid-5.13 in Ticino, Switzerland.
  • While not “news” in an international sense, I wanted to take a moment to give props to a local Wisconsin climber who had an excellent season at the Red River Gorge.  In the course of two months he took his max redpoint from 5.13b up to 5.14a culminating in an ascent of Transworld Depravity in the Madness Cave.  Since he’s not big in the online spray department I’ll refrain from mentioning his name, however anyone that has spent time climbing at Adventure Rock over the past 10 years probably knows the affable and oftentimes goofy looking young man I’m referring to.

And Notes…

Don’t worry: this jamming does not damage the rope. Our internal testing shows that even with the smallest diameters, the rope remains intact, even if the climber falls. Note also that even with the rope in this position, the cam functions normally and the climber’s fall will be arrested.

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2 Responses to News & Notes – 6/1/2011

  1. Pat June 1, 2011 at 5:31 pm #

    What about Phil Powers’ (Executive Director of the AAC) accident in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado several weeks back?  Its interesting and a little scary to realize that these kinds of things can happen to virtually anyone.

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  2. Carlos Lugo June 2, 2011 at 3:58 am #

    Why does Jimmy Webb’s profile say he’s 5’2″?

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