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Training Tips From Justen Sjong

Training Tips From Justen Sjong

Justen Sjong shares several good training tips with Evening Sends

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Men Of Routesetting 2012

Men Of Routesetting 2012

Looking for a last-minute gift for the special lady1 in your life?  For a mere $3, all of which is donated to the Access Fund, you can download the 2012 edition of the Men Of Routesetting calendar.  Flowers are going to be dead in a few days.
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 The MORS calendar lasts all year long…

  1.  Or man
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New Free Climb On Mexican Big Wall By Alex Honnold

Climbing.com has the report on a trip Alex Honnold, Will Stanhope and Paul McSorley took to Mexico to climb on El Gran Trono Blanco.
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 Among other things the trip yielded a new 11 pitch 5.
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13 that was freed by Honnold:

“The route is fairly runout and will most likely never be downrated, if you know what I mean,” said photographer Andrew Burr. “It was mega-hot, and watching Alex negotiate the roof and heinously thin slab traverses in the heat was some of the most impressive leading either myself or Stanhope has ever witnessed.”

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Woods & Metcalf Repeat At 2012 Dark Horse Championships

Woods & Metcalf Repeat At 2012 Dark Horse Championships

In a repeat of 2011, Daniel Woods and Francesca Metcalf win the finale of the Dark Horse Series

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Video Friday – 2/10/2012

Video Friday – 2/10/2012

Climbing movie news and the top videos of the week

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Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One

Ok.  Horrible title.  Forgive me.

Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font.  Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont.  This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.

Update:  Webb added a repeat of Gecko Assis (generally V14 but Webb thought V13) to close out his trip.  Four V13’s or harder in his first 6 days climbing in Font.
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 A world record!!

  1.  Unless I can count that 1 problem that is V10 for some people but not V10 for other people.  Then I’m only 98 behind! Yes!
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Dean Potter On Nat Geo This Sunday

Dean Potter On Nat Geo This Sunday

Dean Potter

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Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth

Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard.  Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.
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14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist.  Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.

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