Training Tips From Justen Sjong

Training Tips From Justen Sjong

Andrew Bisharat shares several good tips he gleaned from a session with climbing coach Justen Sjong including this tidbit that really struck home for me personally:

Because I want to be a “good” climber and I want others to perceive me as such, it seems as though I am often trying too hard to look solid and in control. I hold my breathe, even, to not give that audible clue that I’m actually trying hard. I try to be controlled and static on moves. And above all, my biggest weakness, as Justen pointed out, was that I have trouble giving 100 percent most of the time. It takes a lot for me to put myself out that far.

…snip…

In other words, if I try my hardest and fail, then everyone will know just how weak I am.

The reason for this mentality differs from person to person, but I think there is something to this that affects many of us.  I know that the idea that other people are usually watching and my innate desire to not look like a punter in front of them has had a real impact on my development as a climber.  Throw in the fact that I’m now super famous because of this website1 and it’s any wonder I climb with people around at all any more2.

Anyway, read the article and try to learn a few ways to make yourself a better climber in 2012.

  1.  In a pseudo-anonymous, small fish in a really big sea sort of way
  2.  Not really.  I love climbing with everyone.

Posted In: Training

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5 Responses to Training Tips From Justen Sjong

  1. Doug Lipinski February 14, 2012 at 9:42 am #

    Come on Narc, I’d say you’re a medium to large fish in the incredibly small sea that is the climbing blogosphere. Just ignore the open ocean out there.

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    • Narc February 14, 2012 at 10:05 am #

      Brave and humble, Douglas. Brave and humble.

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      • Gelu February 14, 2012 at 10:46 am #

         He’s about to downgrade the climbing blogosphere…

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  2. Justin Roth February 14, 2012 at 12:04 pm #

    I also trained with Sjong for a few weeks. It was for an article for a mag, but it never materialized, as my bum should melted down. He is quite a good trainer though. Sure knows how to break you down and start building you back up.

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  3. Dylan February 14, 2012 at 6:03 pm #

    I’d wondered at the time about Dave Graham’s comment in REACH about how he feels he has had to become a better person to climb as hard as he does.  I now suspect that he meant something like what this article discusses in the last page.  Cool read.

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