Climbing Areas Archives: Oliana

DiGiulian & Spannuth Climbing Well In Oliana

Posted March 12, 2012 at 6:24 am · Comments { 2 } · Photo: Sasha DiGiulian sending Mind Control

It was another low gravity day (or days) at Oliana as Americans Sasha DiGiulian and Ben Spannuth both had good days over the weekend

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Ben Spannuth, Sasha DiGiulian

· Areas { 1 }

Oliana

News & Notes – 3/7/2012

Posted March 7, 2012 at 7:16 am · Comments { 5 } · Photo: Caroline Ciavaldini on Mind Control by Francisco Taranto Jr

Everybody who’s anybody is climbing 5.14 in Spain right now

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Alex Honnold, Alizée Dufraisse, Caroline Ciavaldini, Chris Sharma, Felipe Camargo, Gabriele Moroni, Guntram Jörg, Herb Conn, James Pearson, Jason Kehl, Mason Earle, Mike Foley, Sasha DiGiulian

· Areas { 7 }

Cerviá, Hueco Tanks, Oliana, Serra do Cipó, Siurana, Squamish, Venezuela

Nina Caprez Repeats Mind Control (5.14c)

Posted February 21, 2012 at 9:07 am · Comments { 13 } ·

Just a day or two after Daila Ojeda did the FFA of Mind Control (5.14c) at Oliana Nina Caprez succeeded in redpointing the route as well. She calls the route a “perfect line” on her blog where she also had this to say about the grade:

The grade of Mind Control is really not extreme. If somebody will downgread, why not.
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But honestly, grades are so unimportant.
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I’ve had the chance to climb such a fantastic line and I feel so alive and my body is full of energy and power. I can realize my dreams, what else counts in live?
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∞ · Comments { 13 } · Climbers { 1 }

Nina Caprez

· Areas { 1 }

Oliana

Double Mind Control (5.14c) Send Day

Posted February 17, 2012 at 2:06 pm · Comments { 11 } · Photo: Daila Ojeda on Mind Control by Keith Ladzinski

It was a big day on the big wall at Oliana yesterday as both Daila Ojeda and Joe Kinder grabbed repeats of Chris Sharma’s Mind Control¹, a stunning 5.14c most famous for being onsighted by Adam Ondra. Big Up Productions is still out in Spain so look for footage of all this Spain stuff at, presumably, this year’s Reel Rock Tour.
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Footage of Ojeda working Mind Control last year can be seen in this Sterling Rope spot.

Mind Control now has two check marks on the unofficial list of reasons a hard route can be downgraded—it’s been onsighted and Joe Kinder climbed it a woman climbed it—so look for that in the near future. ↩

∞ · Comments { 11 } · Climbers { 2 }