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Posted In: Sport Climbing
Climbers: Adam Ondra
Areas: Oliana
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of his attempts here.
Adam Ondra Onsighting Mind Control (5.14c) In Oliana, 4.9 out of 5 based on 24 ratingsI don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
Adam Ondra Onsighting Mind Control (5.14c) In Oliana, 4.9 out of 5 based on 24 ratingsI guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.
Adam Ondra Onsighting Mind Control (5.14c) In Oliana, 4.9 out of 5 based on 24 ratings© 2012 Climbing Narcissist. All Rights Reserved.




Amazing stuff and some pretty good onsighting tips there at the end.
Is there anything cooler looking than a blue limestone tufa??
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Wow amazing video!
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I love that he clips almost every bolt when its at his waist, very energy efficient!
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It’s interesting to see how many of them he skips too
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He’s also the proof that not ALL climbers choose to show off their bodies by climbing without a shirt…he’s probably doing it for the comfort factor!
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What, you don’t think that skinny pale body is hot?
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So what’s your excuse, Pat?
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I simply do it to look cool while campusing V0′s!
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Ondra is amazing, he showed no signs of struggle! If and when we get to 5.16, I have no doubt the first will have his name on it. IMHO.
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This whole onsighting of 5.14c thing has also raised an interesting dynamic among the elite climbers that I think we can all relate to. Namely the emotions you go through when someone comes along and onsights a route you are working on or can’t do. It’s funny and interesting to see top climbers who are used to being the one onsighting other people’s projects having Ondra come along and onsighting their projects.
For instance, Ethan Pringle said this in his latest blog entry about Ondra’s onsight of Blanquita:
“I have to finish up Blanquita or I’ll never forgive myself. Blanquita is a route I tried in Oliana about seven times and fell from this puta slab crux five of those times. It’s rated 8c+ but if it had the 9a grade I wouldn’t argue. There are many involved and difficult sequences and while there is a good rest before the final boulder problem, it’s still damn hard for me even when I just pull on and do it after a rest.
Two weeks ago Adam Ondra onsighted this route. ONSIGHTED!!!
It’s hard to imagine onsighting a route like this that would be so easy f**k up, let alone climb on your first try without falling”
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& the finish was WET!
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BD has been putting out some really good videos lately! Incredible onsight… on the last of the difficulties you could almost see him thinking “crimp? no. Crimp? no. Wet Tufa? yes. damn. oh well. okay. done”
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wow that was impressive
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