Something happened to me over the weekend that hasn’t happened in some time: I was blown away watching a climbing movie
Dave Campbell, as to why he got involved in the annual clean up effort on El Cap appropriately named “The Nose Wipe”:
Yvon Chouinard sums it up well in the movie 180° South: “The whole purpose of climbing something like Everest is to effect some sort of spiritual and physical gain. But if you compromise the process you’re an asshole when you start out and an asshole when you get back.” Abandoning garbage on or around El Capitan tarnishes a coveted process and displays weakness in both character and style. I was an asshole for leaving a mess at the base of the sacred Big Stone.
Video interview with Alex Honnold & Peter Croft
Jimmy Webb & Daniel Woods repeat Meadowlark Lemon in Red Rock, NV
The highest rated videos of the past week
Nice piece by Rannevig Aamodt in Rock & Ice about Adam Ondra’s work this past summer in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway:
Hours later I was startled awake by Ondra standing like a wet cat in a pool of water in the living room. His curly hair was stuck flat to his face, he was covered in rock dust from head to toe, and his eyes were fiery orbs of excitement. It was 3 a.m. and he just finished bolting two new lines with a couple of hours to spare.
It might be weird that I am so happy after having done such a “piece of shit” (referring to the fact that the route is short, painful and in a dirty place), but it was really important for me. The existence of those holds, the seeming impossibility irritated me for a long time… I bolted it 5 years ago and I was urged to send it… One day… And so I did. Better now than never.
A couple of things strike me about this. First, 5.15c is starting to sound like not that big of a deal, but it’s worth remembering that this grade has been climbed only a few times in history by a grand total of two people2. Second, it’s refreshing to see that not only is Ondra Brave & Humble™ when it comes to grading but also when it comes to the quality of the routes he does. You’ll remember he made similar comments about a possible V16, Terranova, that he did in the Czech Republic back in 2011:
In registering the ascent on his 8a.nu scorecard Ondra calls the problem “not the most inspiring line” and indicates that the it is a traverse along the bottom of a sport climbing crag. About the 12 move line he also says, “definitely not the way bouldering should look like”.
Both Terranova and Vasil Vasil strike me as the type of climbs that are very unlikely to be repeated in the near term but are good candidates for the next Adam Ondra to repeat in 10-20 years once they’re done onsighting and repeating all the other 5.15s in the world.
At this very moment, climbing gyms across America are pumping pop, rock, reggae and other background music into their facilities to entertain customers while they climb or work out. Whether the music came from CDs or MP3s, satellite radio or streaming music services like Pandora and Spotify — or whatever other music service their hip, young staff have discovered — chances are the music being played is in violation of federal law.
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- La Dura Complete December 11, 2013
- The Nose Wipe December 10, 2013
- Alex Honnold & Peter Croft Video Interview December 9, 2013
- That Didn’t Take Long December 6, 2013
- Video Friday – 12/6/2013 December 6, 2013
- Adam Ondra’s Hardest Routes In Flatanger December 5, 2013
- Third 5.15c FA By Adam Ondra December 5, 2013