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The Time Value Of Climbing Ability

It’s like the past 15 years of my climbing life are flashing before my eyes each time I re-read this post on the Rock Climber’s Training Manual blog:

For many climbers, the unrestrained desire to climb all the time will be their undoing. This becomes particularly apparent when injuries and rehabilitation are involved, but rehabbing from an injury and improving are really just different ends of the same spectrum. Imagine “Jake” has a minor ligament strain in his ring finger. Jake also has a road trip scheduled for early fall. Laying out his training schedule it becomes clear that he won’t be in shape for his fall road trip unless he compresses his re-hab and skips all the extra rest days his Physical Therapist recommended. So that’s what he does, and three weeks in his “minor” ligament strain is now a minor tear, and a major bummer. It will take Jake 6 months to get healthy again, assuming he’s ever able to find the patience he couldn’t muster a few weeks ago.

Ugh.  They might as well have replaced the fictional name “Jake” with my own.

Feeding into exactly what the post is about though, I’ve been slowly picking my way through the Rock Climber’s Training Manual training book.  The book is full of really great, actionable ideas, and I plan on devoting some time to following one of their training plans…just as soon as I battle through this minor finger injury in an attempt to climb a project I’m probably not really strong enough to actually do1.

  1.  Sadly, not a joke
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Tamás Zupán’s Path To V15

Nice piece on OnBouldering.com about Tamás Zupán’s recent repeat of Daniel Woods’ In Search Of Time Lost (V15):

Back in Budapest, Tamás developed a special training regime, tailored to the particular style of the problem. “I did a lot of planking and trained 5 times a week including campus board, system board and climbing on a 60 degree wall”.

He followed this plan for one and a half years and, just in case some extra pulling strength was needed, he did 50 1 arm pull ups with each arm every single day. Some days with 4,5 kilos to add resistance.

Who hasn’t done 50 1 arm pull ups every day ever cumulatively in a lifetime?

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Video Friday – 7/25/2014

Psicocomp news and the highest rated videos of the past week

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Adam Ondra Climbs Biographie, World Barely Notices

A funny thing happened earlier this week: Adam Ondra “finally” repeated Biographie in Céüse and barely anyone seemed to notice.

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1975

Sonnie Trotter:

In 1975 three Rockies legends scoured The Bow Valley in search of the next great aid line. At the time, they were preparing themselves for a very early repeat of the Shield on El Capitan in Yosemite, and hoped to find the perfect training ground close to home. The Shield is a thin, technically challenging seam, and the three local boys (found in this photo below), finally discovered what they thought would be the ideal line, a rare and steep splitter finger crack on a blank wall.

Cool story.

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First Ascents For Paul Robinson In South Africa

DPM caught up with Paul Robinson who spent the past couple of months exploring a newer area in South Africa called Three Corners:

On my fourth trip [to South Africa], I was told vaguely about some boulders in the middle Cederberg and wanted to go see what I could find.  I drove out there with the “Chasing Winter” crew (Carlo Traversi, Ashima Shiraishi) and we spent a few days hiking and exploring the zone. I didn’t really have the eye then to see the potential that I did this past trip. I am so glad I gave the area another chance because in 2012 when I went, I wasn’t able to see the massive potential of the area.

The potential he found included the problem pictured below called In the Depths of Solitude which could be as hard as V15.  In addition, Robinson opened a slew of other double digit problem including three V13s and a good number of more moderate problems as well.

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Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition and Access Fund Offer Joint Membership

Big news for the Access Fund and the Red River Gorge:

The Access Fund and Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) are excited to announce they have combined forces to offer joint membership. Climbers can now join and support the Access Fund and RRGCC with a single membership. This new combined membership allows climbers to support national climbing access efforts and Red River Gorge access efforts with a single membership donation.

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2014 IFSC Lead World Cup – Briançon Live

The 2014 IFSC Lead World Cup continues this weekend with a stop in Briançon, France

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