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Woods & Robinson Do First Repeats Of Graham’s The Ice Knife (V15)

Beau Kahler was on the scene in Guanella Pass, CO yesterday as Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson did the 2nd and 3rd ascents respectively of Dave Graham’s The Ice Knife (V15).  Graham put up the problem back in 2011 calling it one of the most challenging problems he had done in some time.  The problem hadn’t seen much effort in the intervening years, but once Woods and Robinson set to work it didn’t take long before quick progress was made toward seeing a repeat or two.  There is mention of a sit start being possible so this probably isn’t the last we’ve heard of this boulder.

Woods was fresh off doing the FA of a new problem called The Purge in Tickland Elkland outside Estes Park, CO.  On his 8a scorecard he calls this proposed V14 “the full package line” and notes that he had to climb on it at night to get better conditions.

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Video Friday – 5/17/2013

Video Friday – 5/17/2013

The highest rated videos of the past week

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2013 IFSC Bouldering World Cup – Innsbruck Live

Live from the 2013 Bouldering World Cup in Innsbruck, Austria

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Central Washington Bouldering

Central Washington Bouldering

A few words about my recent trip to central Washington to boulder in Gold Bar, Index and Leavenworth

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NPS Authorizes Fixed Anchors In Wilderness

Big news from the Access Fund:

After decades of work, the Access Fund received notice yesterday from National Park Service (NPS) that the agency has issued final national policy authorizing fixed anchors in wilderness. This policy—Director’s Order #41—affects many of the country’s most important climbing areas such as Yosemite, Grand Teton, Zion, Joshua Tree, and Canyonlands National Parks.

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Sean McColl’s First Bouldering World Cup Victory

Sean McColl, writing about how it felt to win his first bouldering World Cup over the weekend in Log Dragomer, Slovenia:

In my head I was saying “you won one, you did it”. At the top of the boulder I just started screaming. “YES”, “YES” is all that came out while fist pumping with one hand and locking off with the other. People tell me it’s moments like that in which I’ll remember forever. I can tell you that I won’t be forgetting that moment in many years to come.

Congrats to Sean, America’s adopted comp climbing son!

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3rd Ascent Of Corona (5.15a) By Alex Megos

Alex Megos has done the 3rd ascent of Markus Bock’s Corona (5.15a) in Germany’s Frankenjura according to Frankenjura.com (in German).  Megos needed about 10 tries to climb the 60 ft. line.  This is his 3rd 5.15 after La Rambla in Siurana and his route Classified which is also in the Frankenjura.

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Climbing Banned At Castle Rocks, ID

More bad access news, this time from Idaho:

On April 17, 2013, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in Idaho announced that all rock climbing activity will be banned on its 400-acre portion of the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area, citing the need to protect cultural resources.

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The BLM’s decision to ignore the same climbing management plan it helped create is totally unnecessary and unjustified. The Access Fund, Boise Climbers Alliance, Eastern Idaho Climbers Coalition, and the American Alpine Club are appealing BLM’s April 17th decision, but we need your help!

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