A funny thing happened earlier this week: Adam Ondra “finally” repeated Biographie in Céüse and barely anyone seemed to notice.
In 1975 three Rockies legends scoured The Bow Valley in search of the next great aid line. At the time, they were preparing themselves for a very early repeat of the Shield on El Capitan in Yosemite, and hoped to find the perfect training ground close to home. The Shield is a thin, technically challenging seam, and the three local boys (found in this photo below), finally discovered what they thought would be the ideal line, a rare and steep splitter finger crack on a blank wall.
DPM caught up with Paul Robinson who spent the past couple of months exploring a newer area in South Africa called Three Corners:
On my fourth trip [to South Africa], I was told vaguely about some boulders in the middle Cederberg and wanted to go see what I could find. I drove out there with the “Chasing Winter” crew (Carlo Traversi, Ashima Shiraishi) and we spent a few days hiking and exploring the zone. I didn’t really have the eye then to see the potential that I did this past trip. I am so glad I gave the area another chance because in 2012 when I went, I wasn’t able to see the massive potential of the area.
The potential he found included the problem pictured below called In the Depths of Solitude which could be as hard as V15. In addition, Robinson opened a slew of other double digit problem including three V13s and a good number of more moderate problems as well.
Big news for the Access Fund and the Red River Gorge:
The Access Fund and Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) are excited to announce they have combined forces to offer joint membership. Climbers can now join and support the Access Fund and RRGCC with a single membership. This new combined membership allows climbers to support national climbing access efforts and Red River Gorge access efforts with a single membership donation.
The 2014 IFSC Lead World Cup continues this weekend with a stop in Briançon, France
The highest rated videos of the past week
Dave Allfrey, writing for Alpinist about his and Alex Honnold’s recent efforts to climb El Capitan seven times in seven consecutive days:
In the end I believe we found what we were looking for–a physical and mental endurance challenge and a grand adventure on El Capitan. We hoped to enchain in-a-day ascents and find a new level of difficulty. We wanted to test our big-wall skill and efficiency to see if we could make this possible.
I warmed up by checking out the moves on Biographie, this took circa 1 hour. Then I started to make the attempts, and had circa 30 – 40 minutes rest between each go. Conditions were very good and my first feeling was: I’m going to send it today.
His thoughts on why he didn’t try to flash or onsight the route are interesting to read as well.
- I’ve seen a lot of people refer to him having done it in three attempts, but I think it was actually four. But who’s counting, right? ↩
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- Adam Ondra Climbs Biographie, World Barely Notices July 24, 2014
- 1975 July 23, 2014
- First Ascents For Paul Robinson In South Africa July 22, 2014
- Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition and Access Fund Offer Joint Membership July 22, 2014
- 2014 IFSC Lead World Cup – Briançon Live July 19, 2014
- Video Friday – 7/18/2014 July 18, 2014
- 7 In 7 July 17, 2014