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Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth

Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard.  Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist.  Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.

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Vicious Fish (5.13d) Repeated By 12-Year-Old Drew Ruana

Vicious Fish (5.13d) Repeated By 12-Year-Old Drew Ruana

Last weekend 12-year-old Drew Ruana took his climbing to the next level by repeating Vicious Fish (5.13d) at Smith Rock, OR

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First 5.14d(ish) For Alizée Dufraisse In Siurana

First 5.14d(ish) For Alizée Dufraisse In Siurana

Alizée Dufraisse continues to climb well in Spain

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News & Notes – 1/17/2012

News & Notes – 1/17/2012

A few News & Notes items from Dai Koyamada, Iker Pou, Alex Johnson, Renan Ozturk and much more…

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Enzo Oddo Repeats La Rambla Original (5.15a)

16-year-old French phenom Enzo Oddo has climbed yet another 5.15 with his repeat of La Rambla original in Siurana, Spain.  The route was first climbed before Oddo was even born by Alex Huber to a stopping point 3/4 up the wall, and it was subsequently extended by Ramón Julián Puigblanque.  The accepted grade for this route these days seems to be 5.15a, but Rock and Ice has a good recap of this history of the route including Huber’s thoughts on how the grade of this route and many others has been inflated over the years:

“It’s a fact that La Rambla increased in grade from 8c+ (5.14c) to 9a+ (5.15a). Often people believe this is due to the route extension, but in reality the difficulties do not change substantially with this extension.”

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News & Notes – 12/20/2011

News & Notes – 12/20/2011

Tell Santa to take the week off…News & Notes is back with this massive dump of news…

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“Why On Earth Don’t I Live Here?”

Writing for Five Ten about his recent time spent in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge1, Dave Graham unleashes another classic entry for the internet to enjoy:

I will admit, as this is my second trip to this place, I am blown away by the quality of the rock, the natural nature of the way the routes flow. The fact that I have never dedicated some time to climbing here confuses me, and makes me question whether I even know what the hell I am doing after climbing for 15 years.

Why on earth don’t I live here?

And writing on her blog, Emily Harrington offers some pictures and some insights she gained from climbing with Graham the past couple of weeks:

Dave is one of those individuals who doesn’t train for climbing.  He doesn’t believe in it. Instead, he believes in his own creativity and self-expression, and it’s evident when he climbs.  He never stops believing in his ability to do a move or complete a route….As Dave has shown me, sometimes using your mind is more important than everything else.

  1.  A time that has been plagued by fickle weather and trips to the mall to visit Hot Topic
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Successful Trip To The Red River Gorge For Jorg Verhoeven

Jorg Verhoeven reports on his blog that he had a pretty successful trip to the Red River Gorge with repeats of Pure Imagination (5.14d), Fifty Words For Pump (5.14c) and Southern Smoke (5.14c) among the routes on his ticklist.  Check out a video of the Pure Imagination send here.

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Adam Taylor Brings 5.15 To The Red River Gorge

Adam Taylor Brings 5.15 To The Red River Gorge

Red River Gorge local Adam Taylor ushers in the era of 5.15 at the Red

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