Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard. Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist. Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.
Vicious Fish (5.13d) Repeated By 12-Year-Old Drew Ruana
Last weekend 12-year-old Drew Ruana took his climbing to the next level by repeating Vicious Fish (5.13d) at Smith Rock, OR
First 5.14d(ish) For Alizée Dufraisse In Siurana
Alizée Dufraisse continues to climb well in Spain
News & Notes – 1/17/2012
A few News & Notes items from Dai Koyamada, Iker Pou, Alex Johnson, Renan Ozturk and much more…

Enzo Oddo Repeats La Rambla Original (5.15a)
16-year-old French phenom Enzo Oddo has climbed yet another 5.15 with his repeat of La Rambla original in Siurana, Spain. The route was first climbed before Oddo was even born by Alex Huber to a stopping point 3/4 up the wall, and it was subsequently extended by Ramón Julián Puigblanque. The accepted grade for this route these days seems to be 5.15a, but Rock and Ice has a good recap of this history of the route including Huber’s thoughts on how the grade of this route and many others has been inflated over the years:
“It’s a fact that La Rambla increased in grade from 8c+ (5.14c) to 9a+ (5.15a). Often people believe this is due to the route extension, but in reality the difficulties do not change substantially with this extension.”
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News & Notes – 12/20/2011
Tell Santa to take the week off…News & Notes is back with this massive dump of news…

“Why On Earth Don’t I Live Here?”
Writing for Five Ten about his recent time spent in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge1, Dave Graham unleashes another classic entry for the internet to enjoy:
I will admit, as this is my second trip to this place, I am blown away by the quality of the rock, the natural nature of the way the routes flow. The fact that I have never dedicated some time to climbing here confuses me, and makes me question whether I even know what the hell I am doing after climbing for 15 years.
Why on earth don’t I live here?
And writing on her blog, Emily Harrington offers some pictures and some insights she gained from climbing with Graham the past couple of weeks:
Dave is one of those individuals who doesn’t train for climbing. He doesn’t believe in it. Instead, he believes in his own creativity and self-expression, and it’s evident when he climbs. He never stops believing in his ability to do a move or complete a route….As Dave has shown me, sometimes using your mind is more important than everything else.
- A time that has been plagued by fickle weather and trips to the mall to visit Hot Topic ↩

Successful Trip To The Red River Gorge For Jorg Verhoeven
Jorg Verhoeven reports on his blog that he had a pretty successful trip to the Red River Gorge with repeats of Pure Imagination (5.14d), Fifty Words For Pump (5.14c) and Southern Smoke (5.14c) among the routes on his ticklist. Check out a video of the Pure Imagination send here.
Adam Taylor Brings 5.15 To The Red River Gorge
Red River Gorge local Adam Taylor ushers in the era of 5.15 at the Red
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Video Friday – 2/10/2012
February 10, 2012
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Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
February 9, 2012
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Dean Potter On Nat Geo This Sunday
February 9, 2012
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Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
February 8, 2012
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Great News From Red Rock
February 8, 2012
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Alex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
February 7, 2012
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Low Gravity Week In Fontainebleau
February 6, 2012
News & Notes
Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
Ok. Horrible title. Forgive me.
Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font. Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont. This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.
Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard. Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist. Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.
1 CommentAlex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
Alex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:
great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.
Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.
Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent
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