There’s been a lot of tongue twisting in the climbing news-osphere about Adam Ondra‘s recent FA of Joe-cita (5.14d) in Oliana, Spain.  While he did climb that specific line on his first try, he had previously climbed a portion of the link-up while climbing other routes.  Granted, he did either onsight or flash the harder parts, but  rules are rules.  He also came close to onsighting Duele la Realidad 2R (5.14d) but had to settle for a 2nd go send.

Get your bets in now for when 5.14d is going to go down first go…

Adam Ondra is up to his old tricks, onsighting a 5.14c¹ and doing the FA of a 5.14d according to this update he put together for PlanetMountain.  But what is perhaps most interesting is his revelation in an interview with 8a.nu that he was only recently able to complete his first one arm pull-up.  Multiple 5.14c onsights and 5.15b redpoints, repeats of several boulders in the V15-16 range and only now does he have the strength to pull off a one arm.

Adam Ondra writes for PlanetMountain about his new 5.14d in the Czech Republic:

I established “To tu jeste nebylo” together with Ondra Benes ground-up last autumn and I managed the first redpoint a few days ago. The name could be translated as “Never been here before” as this is a breakthrough in terms of difficulty on Czech sandstone.

The route in question was rap bolted and chipped against the local ethic some years ago and was subsequently chopped before Ondra and Ondra¹ re-bolted it at their own peril last year.  Gnar.