Climbers Archives: Adam Ondra

La Dura Complete: The Hardest Rock Climb In The World

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Adam Ondra Repeats First Round, First Minute (5.15b)

Adam Ondra Repeats First Round, First Minute (5.15b)

Spoiler alert: Adam Ondra climbs another really hard sport route

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Adam Ondra 5.14d FA (2nd Try)

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La Dura Complete

Something happened to me over the weekend that hasn’t happened in some time: I was blown away watching a climbing movie

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Adam Ondra’s Hardest Routes In Flatanger

Nice piece by Rannevig Aamodt in Rock & Ice about Adam Ondra’s work this past summer in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway:

Hours later I was startled awake by Ondra standing like a wet cat in a pool of water in the living room. His curly hair was stuck flat to his face, he was covered in rock dust from head to toe, and his eyes were fiery orbs of excitement. It was 3 a.m. and he just finished bolting two new lines with a couple of hours to spare.

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Third 5.15c FA By Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has done his 3rd 5.15c FA1 with the FA of Vasil Vasil at Sloup in his native Czech Republic.  Ondra comments on the route in this interview with UKC:

It might be weird that I am so happy after having done such a “piece of shit” (referring to the fact that the route is short, painful and in a dirty place), but it was really important for me. The existence of those holds, the seeming impossibility irritated me for a long time… I bolted it 5 years ago and I was urged to send it… One day… And so I did. Better now than never.

A couple of things strike me about this.  First, 5.15c is starting to sound like not that big of a deal, but it’s worth remembering that this grade has been climbed only a few times in history by a grand total of two people2.  Second, it’s refreshing to see that not only is Ondra Brave & Humble™ when it comes to grading but also when it comes to the quality of the routes he does.  You’ll remember he made similar comments about a possible V16, Terranova, that he did in the Czech Republic back in 2011:

In registering the ascent on his 8a.nu scorecard Ondra calls the problem “not the most inspiring line” and indicates that the it is a traverse along the bottom of a sport climbing crag.  About the 12 move line he also says, “definitely not the way bouldering should look like”.

Both Terranova and Vasil Vasil strike me as the type of climbs that are very unlikely to be repeated in the near term but are good candidates for the next Adam Ondra to repeat in 10-20 years once they’re done onsighting and repeating all the other 5.15s in the world.

  1.  After Change and La Dura Dura
  2.  So far…
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Remember First Round First Minute?

Brief video of First Round First Minute getting some action this week…

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