News & Notes – 3/7/2012

News & Notes – 3/7/2012


  • Chris Sharma’s Mind Control (5.14c) must have quite the line for it each day.  150 feet of climbing and sends in the past few weeks by Caroline Ciavaldini, James Pearson and Gabriele Moroni who comments on his 8a scorecard that “everybody knows it’s only 8c (5.14b)”.  Ciavaldini’s repeat came on the heels of her fast repeat of Fish Eye (5.14b) which is also at Oliana.
  • Alizée Dufraisse continues to work her way toward sending La Rambla (5.15a) by repeating El Rastro (5.14c) in Siurana, Spain.  El Rastro climbs the same line as La Rambla to 3/4 height before diverging for the finish.
  • Sasha DiGiulian is back in Spain where she’s added Kalea Borraka (5.14a) to her 8a scorecard.  Something tells me this won’t be the last time we hear from her.  DiGiulian was also interviewed by UKC where she confirmed her plan to go to school this fall:
I value education as equally important to my climbing career and I find that without pursuing education, I am leaving a big segment of my life behind. I have loved the past few months of just climbing but for me it is not fulfilling enough. While I know that it would be easiest for my climbing to put off school for longer, I do not want to. I feel capable of challenging myself to excel at both simultaneously and that is what I plan on attempting come this fall when I am in NYC for school.
Kids With Guns- 5.13a, A3, 21 Pitches, took us a total of 15 climbing days to complete. We placed 6 bolts; four were for belays, and two as protection bolts. The route will almost certainly go free. We are not sure of the height of the wall, but it is in the neighborhood of 450m-500m. Our best estimate is that the wall overhangs a little over 300 feet, making our route one of the steepest in the world. I could not have picked three finer gentlemen to share this grand adventure with.

…And Notes…

All of these problems highlight the need for climbers to be actively engaged in their local communities. It’s easy when the email comes out asking for you to leave a comment on a new management plan to think that someone else will do it, or to put it off until later, and then it never happens. But the fact is we have to show how strong our community is, now, or we could lose access for years to come.

Word has trickled out of the loss of Herb Conn, who with his wife, Jan, formed the original great pioneering partnership in the famed trad stronghold of the Needles of South Dakota, to cancer at age 91.

  • Look who Mrs. Narc spotted in the latest issue of People:

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Posted In: Bouldering, News, News & Notes, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing
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5 Responses to News & Notes – 3/7/2012

  1. Fernando March 7, 2012 at 9:23 am #

    nice, just a little correction… it’s Serra do Cipó

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    • Narc March 7, 2012 at 9:26 am #


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  2. colin March 7, 2012 at 9:49 am #

    Oh, snap! Only 5.14b…this changes everything!!!

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  3. Aaron S March 7, 2012 at 10:11 pm #

    There is so much time to climb while in school, with exception perhaps of certain programs for architecture, fine arts and engineering. You just have to choose climbing over other social events. I’m sure Sasha will not only benefit from school in all the normal ways but will learn how to get stronger more efficiently in the long run . . . the crushage will continue for a LONG time.

    Here’s to everyone getting a degree and bumping grades simultaneously.

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  4. Mike March 8, 2012 at 10:54 pm #

    props to the boys in Venezuela and Siebe the Belgian sensation!!!!!

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