Climbing Areas Archives: California

Caldwell’s Dawn Wall Push Over…For Now

In an update on his Facebook page yesterday Tommy Caldwell indicated that he’s given up the hope of completing his Dawn Wall project in a single push, instead opting to go down to the ground to recuperate before returning to his current highpoint to forge higher.  After over two weeks on the wall he was able to match his highpoint of pitch 12 from last year but was unable to send pitch 13 despite a prolonged battle.

Update:  Caldwell returned for a brief attempt on Pitch 13 but decided to pack up and head home for the season:

In so many ways, free-climbing El Cap seems absurd and contrived. But it drives me in a way that I love, satisfying a deep-rooted curiosity. A need to explore not only what I see, but who I am.
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I choose to immerse myself in this project again and again because it stretches my imagination and reminds me that I am capable of much more that I am usually aware of.
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It would be empty without the allure of success. But it doesn’t always end that way.
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At least for now.

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Adaptive Climbing Clinic with Ronnie Dickson – Joshua Tree, CA

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Caldwell Matches Previous Highpoint On Dawn Wall Project

Caldwell Matches Previous Highpoint On Dawn Wall Project

Tommy Caldwell’s push to free a new route up El Capitan’s Dawn Wall is 10 days old now and the events over the weekend were really something.

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Tommy Caldwell Explains His New Approach To Sharing Dawn Wall Updates

Tommy Caldwell has freed the first 11 pitches of his Dawn Wall project and is now working on pitch 12.  Of course, you already knew this if you’ve been following the updates and pictures on his Facebook page.  For someone who has normally been rather reserved when it comes to the online climbing world, this new level of sharing by Caldwell has caught many by surprise.  In this post on The Cleanest Line he explains to friend Kelly Cordes some of the thoughts behind this change:

Although it felt a bit unnatural at first, I decided to embrace the circus on this project. There are many reasons for this.
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First of all, it becomes a circus whether I like it or not. The Ask a Climber Program here in Yosemite has put the climbers on El Cap on display.
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There are daily blog updates complete with photos of what is going on. If you can’t fight ‘em, might as well join ‘em.
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The Season 2 Episode 14: El Cap Dreaming

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Dawn Wall Push Underway

Dawn Wall Push Underway

The push is on for Tommy Caldwell to free his Dawn Wall project on El Cap, this time without injured partner Kevin Jorgeson

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Dawn Wall 2011

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson returned to Yosemite late last month to resume work on their Dawn Wall project. Unfortunately, Kevin has been sidelined, at least temporarily, by an ankle injury sustained while working one of the pitches. Tommy is still there doing his thing though, and in this piece for the Cleanest Line he talks about what drives him to work on projects like this:

The formula is pretty set. Dream up a climbing trip or pick a climbing objective, then direct my life towards that goal… whatever it takes. I have come to depend on the stress and pain.
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For me, a day without suffering is like a day without sunshine. I stuff my gnarled, fungus infested feet into shoes three sizes too small and climb until my fingers bleed. And if that wasn’t enough I have decided I prefer to do this on really big climbs where the pain can stretch on for days, weeks, even months.
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You can follow their progress by following Tommy and Kevin on Twitter, by checking out the El Cap Report or better yet just waiting for me to share any updates I come across.

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