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Super Unknown

Really nice TNB this week over at Rock & Ice about a 5.14d in central Texas Nick Duttle got the 2nd ascent of that was first done by a guy you almost certainly have never heard of.

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La Rambla (5.15a) 2nd Go By Alex Megos

Who is Alex Megos, and where did he come from?

Not long after his onsight of Estado critico (5.14d), Alex Megos continued his good form by redpointing La Rambla (5.15a) in just two tries according to this post in Spanish on Dani Fuertes’ blog.  Apparently a flash was not that far off, with Megos falling right near the top on his first go.
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 Megos also did A Muerte (5.14d) on his second try.

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Paige Claassen Repeats To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)

Paige Claassen, writing on her blog, after she achieved a longtime goal of repeating To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) in Smith Rock, OR:

This past weekend, I climbed the only route that I’ve cared to complete since I was little. To Bolt was an important milestone for me in many ways. Established in 1986 by Jean-Baptiste Tribout, America’s first 5.14 has held its grade for over 25 years.
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Repeats are somewhat rare, given the route’s staggering presence and accessibility in perhaps the nation’s best maintained State Park.
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But projecting To Bolt means signing up for mental warfare.

I’m definitely looking forward to seeing some video of this route.

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Alex Megos’ Three Try Limit

Alex Megos, in an email to sponsor DMM, with some details on his onsight of Estado crítico (5.14d):

In that moment I didn’t think about having done something really outstanding. But after the send somebody asked me if this was the first 9a onsight and I said I don’t know and started to think about it.

The article goes on to mention that Megos generally only tries something three times before moving on. Clearly this works pretty well for him, what with him climbing over 100 routes and boulders 8a or harder during his recent U.
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S. trip and now this 5.14d onsight.

I was tempted to make some sort of joke about how I also only have a three try limit, but the reality is that if I don’t do something within the first two tries I’ll probably never do it…
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but that doesn’t keep me from trying.

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Chris Sharma Interviewed About La Dura Dura

Chris Sharma, in an interview with PlanetMountain, talking about his repeat of La Dura Dura (5.15c):

I must have spent a whole year trying the lower section, those 15 moves. Doing this was a really long process, mentally, because there’s a really hard iron cross move where I kept falling and when I finally did this, I then fell higher up.

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The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) Repeated By Carlo Traversi

The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) Repeated By Carlo Traversi

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The hits just keep coming for Carlo Traversi as he has done the 5th1 ascent of Dave Graham’s The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland. This send comes shortly after Traversi repeated Meadowlark Lemon (V15) in Red Rocks back in February.

  1. Or maybe 6th depending on how many times you count Dai Koyamada sending this problem or some variation thereof
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Making Muir Valley

Nice piece by Outside Online profling Liz and Rick Weber, owners of Muir Valley in the Red River Gorge:

With over 30,000 visitors last year, Muir Valley has become the most popular climbing destination in the eastern half of the country. For eight years, Rick and Liz Weber have shouldered the property and developmental expenses as their gift to the climbing community.
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But, now in their late 60s and facing declining health, the future of the valley is unclear.
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If you’ve climbed in the Red River Gorge in the past 10 years the odds are pretty good you’ve climbed on the Weber’s property.
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 The odds are also pretty good that you’ve climbed on their property at zero expense to yourself, so consider making a donation to Friends of Muir Valley if you want to see climbing continue on this incredible property into the future.

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