If you had Adam Ondra in the office pool for who would be the first to onsight 5.14d you just lost. Please pay up.
Desnivel reports (in Spanish) that Alex Megos has onsighted the route Estado crítico in Siurana, Spain becoming the first person to ever onsight a 5.14d.
First done in 2004 by Ramon Julian and subject to some debate over its grade, the route seems to have settled firmly into the 5.14d range despite the fact that Adam Ondra’s scorecard still says “NEVER 9a1“. If my interpretation of Desnivel’s article is correct I believe that statement just reflects his opinion of the route back in 2007 when he first did it and not his opinion after repeating Golpe de estado (5.15b)—which is a direct start to Estado crítico—and finding a key hold or rest on Estado crítico had broken.
But enough about Adam Ondra, this Alex Megos kid is on an incredible run. He flashed Pure Imagination (5.14c) a few months back in the Red River Gorge and climbed a whole mess of other hard routes and boulders while he was here. As a bonus he appears to have remained extremely Brave & Humble™ throughout this whole experience.
Here’s some footage of Markus Jung on Estado crítico:
Update – From a 2010 interview with Adam Ondra where he talks about the hold break on Estado crítico:
The hold was not a resting jug, but it helped. Before Estado Critico was more of an endurance problem, now there is a definite crux (but for Golpe it is not the crux). Estado Critico is now significantly harder, from 8c+ to 9a.
- 5.14d ↩