Paige Claassen Repeats To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)

Paige Claassen, writing on her blog, after she achieved a longtime goal of repeating To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) in Smith Rock, OR:

This past weekend, I climbed the only route that I’ve cared to complete since I was little. To Bolt was an important milestone for me in many ways. Established in 1986 by Jean-Baptiste Tribout, America’s first 5.14 has held its grade for over 25 years.
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Repeats are somewhat rare, given the route’s staggering presence and accessibility in perhaps the nation’s best maintained State Park.
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But projecting To Bolt means signing up for mental warfare.

I’m definitely looking forward to seeing some video of this route.

Posted In: Asides, News, Sport Climbing


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4 Responses to Paige Claassen Repeats To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)

  1. Daniel March 28, 2013 at 9:50 am #

    Nice! Looking forward to a video and her upcoming Enormocast interview 🙂 Really impressive ascent!

    “I went up the classic Smith testpiece To Bolt Or Not To Be a couple of times and… wow, I can’t believe it’s still rated 14a. It definitely feels harder than Necessary Evil. I also tried The Big R a few times while I was at Smith. Also HARD. Maybe not quite as hard as To Bolt, but still pretty damn hard. On our last day I sketched my way though the powerful midway crux skipping a bolt and running out out only to fall from the slab crux near the top. It felt like I could have fallen there five or ten more times before the send so I wasn’t that bummed. I need to go back to smith and finnish those rigs! Paige Claassen told me at the Nationals that she’s going to Smith soon to try To Bolt. That would be an amazing achievement for a girl! I’m not sure how much harder it’s gotten since Beth’s ascent ten years ago, but at least a little bit… it’s pretty much glassy micro-crimps over bad feet without much of a rest for about 80 feet or so… not my style at all. Good luck Paige!”

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  2. J March 28, 2013 at 11:51 am #

    Super Proud Send!

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  3. Jon March 28, 2013 at 8:07 pm #

    Haha To Bolt is the most boring climb to watch ever! no dynos! no rose moves! Only Crimpers?? ba humbug!

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  4. Jon March 28, 2013 at 8:08 pm #

    / awesome send!

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