Archive | October, 2012

Devil’s Kitchen

Posted October 31, 2012 at 3:50 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

I had the pleasure of spending some time talking shop with Jamie Emerson when I was in Boulder a couple of weeks ago, and one topic of conversation was his recent climbing in Wyoming’s Devil’s Kitchen.  He’s since updated his blog with an update on the past few trips he’s made to help develop this incredible looking area:

It’s been a great fall of developing awesome new problems on outstanding rock in a wild setting. These are the kinds of days I live for, and while there are too many subtle moments to properly convey in post like this, it would be an understatement to say I’ve been motivated. It’s hard to imagine I would have come to such a place after so long, but I am loving every minute of it.
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I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again.
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I am fortunate to be able to share this area and my experiences with all of you.
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More from Devil’s Kitchen in this video of Ryan Silven and this video of Daniel Woods doing the FA of Never Cry Wolf (v13).

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Nemesis Rigs

Posted October 31, 2012 at 7:08 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Somewhere his latest post recapping some “nemesis projects” that have been giving him trouble of late in Colorado, Dave Graham makes some good points that could apply to any of us:

Many of these Nemesis Projects I keep secret. I don’t like people to know how difficult they feel for me, because they will tell me i’m weak, make fun of me, all Colorado style, and give me lots of shit. “Its an easy 8b dude, I don’t know what your problem is” or “Maybe you should train more in the gym, I think you need to bulk up” I’m sensitive to that talk.
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Colorado can suck. It would be just like the kids used to do at that Jewish Day Camp my Dad sent me too.
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I was the only kid who wasn’t Jewish. So they gave me shit. Which wasn’t cool. I want to avoid that.

Somewhere in there.

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Adam Ondra Flashes Southern Smoke Direct (5.14d) – Updated

Adam Ondra Flashes Southern Smoke Direct (5.14d) – Updated

Posted October 29, 2012 at 8:44 pm · Comments { 38 } ·

Yep

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Two 5.14c’s By Ashima Shiraishi In The Red River Gorge

Posted October 29, 2012 at 7:14 am · Comments { 1 } ·

11-year-old Ashima Shiraishi had an incredible trip to the Red River Gorge over the past week or so.
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 She started the trip by climbing her first 5.14a and then flashing her first 5.14a shortly thereafter.  With that out of the way she set her sights on something a little harder, and in back to back days on Friday and Saturday she succeeded in climbing both Southern Smoke and Lucifer.  DPM’s Mikey Williams was there on Friday for the Southern Smoke send and he has more details on the Lucifer send as well.  Amazing.

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Video Friday – 10/26/2012

Video Friday – 10/26/2012

Posted October 26, 2012 at 6:53 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week…

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Help Kickstart Restoration Of Classic Yosemite Movie

Help Kickstart Restoration Of Classic Yosemite Movie

Posted October 25, 2012 at 8:12 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Help restore the classic 1968 movie El Capitan

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PlanetMountain’s “Multi-pitch” Interview With Adam Ondra

Posted October 24, 2012 at 10:30 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Great interview from PlanetMountain with Adam Ondra covering competitions, his first year as a full-time climber, climbing styles and pushing his limits, like he did on his recent 5.15c FA Change:

 Recent times have definitely been a change for me, hence the name of this route, because it’s the epitome of all of this. It is like entering a new world, where all childhood obsessions and dreams are just multiplied. I now have endless possibilities about where to go – which is why I love climbing – and I myself don’t know what to do first.

It’s hard to believe that he’ll be 20 this coming February.

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