Archive | October, 2012

Free Climbing The PreMuir

Brit Hazel Findlay has put together a nice post on her blog detailing her efforts, along with Neil Dyer and James McHaffie, to do the 2nd free ascent of the PreMuir (5.13+, 33 pitches) on El Capitan:

I think that when I look back at our PreMuir mission, what I will remember most is being on that ledge at 9.30 at night almost too mentally and physically tired of trying hard to enjoy the moment. We could taste the relief that was to come, but still there was some small doubt that we wouldn’t be able to pull it out of the bag. But skill, or good luck, or effort or something else was on our side and the next day we found ourselves at the top, too tired to sing and dance, but happy nonetheless.

It’s well worth reading the full post, which is loaded with great pictures from Tom Evans, to get a good sense of the effort required to free climb these hard lines on El Cap.

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So It Begins In The Red River Gorge – Updated

So It Begins In The Red River Gorge – Updated

This could be a season to remember down in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. Some guy named Adam Ondra will be there shortly, and several big names are already on the ground racking up sends.

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Bouldering News From Robinson, Traversi & Koyamada – Updated

Bouldering News From Robinson, Traversi & Koyamada – Updated

Conditions seem to be prime in Europe as several noteworthy bouldering repeats have gone down in the past couple of weeks.

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Two 5.14c’s By Joe Kinder In Utah

Joe Kinder recently ticked off two 5.14c’s in Utah which he recapped in this blog post full of some great pictures and this quote that really applies to all of us:

My GAWD I was psyched.  Put it this way… GOALS WERE ALL MET!  What more could I ask for?!?!  Two 8c+ routes (2nd ascents I believe) in a week just sounds cool to me.  I mean really, I am not Adam Ondra or anyone that bad ass, but shit man… when you send your projects you feel like THE MAN!!!  I love that and have gotten a few good doses of it and now i need more…

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Female V14 Barrier Broken By Tomoko Ogawa

Female V14 Barrier Broken By Tomoko Ogawa

34-year-old Tomoko Ogawa becomes the first woman to climb V14

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Video Friday – 10/19/2012

Video Friday – 10/19/2012

The highest rated videos of the past week

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Access Fund Acquires Holy Boulders

Access Fund Acquires Holy Boulders

The Access Fund has acquired Southern Illinois’ Holy Boulders and they need your help:

The Access Fund is pleased to announce that it has acquired the Holy Boulders in Southern Illinois. However, more help is needed from the climbing community to fundraise and transfer the property to a long-term owner.

They are looking to raise $185,000 from the climbing community to help cover acquisition and other related expenses, a tall task for an area that has flown under the radar over the years due to the tenuous nature of the previous access situation.  To help whet your appetite to support this project the Access Fund has put together this video as well as a small topo for the area.  Full details can be found here.

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