News & Notes – 4/14/2010

News & Notes – 4/14/2010

  • 15 Question with Daniel Woods
  • Sasha DiGiulian had a good trip to the Red River Gorge late last month sending multiple 5.13s.  Also at the Red, young Alex D Johnson (not to be confused with Alexandra Johnson) had a nice spring break trip himself sending a slew of 5.13s.  I had the personal pleasure of watching his impressive flash of Kaleidoscsope (5.13c).  Look for more from Alex in the next couple of years.
  • Alex Honnold did his first 5.14c last week when he sent The Green Mile at California’s Jailhouse.
  • Pump Factory Road did a superb interview with Core filmmaker Chuck Fryberger recently that touches a wide range of topics from filmmaking to red tags to the difficulties of releasing a movie on Blu Ray to the relationships between athletes and film companies.  Definitely check this one out.
  • Speaking of Core, there are several showings coming up including one at Ohio State University on April 16th.  Also at OSU is an evening with Sonnie Trotter on April 23rd

  • What can you say about Adam Ondra?  The kid is just an amazing climber.  He recently did another 5.15 FA when he cleaned up an old project in Cornalba, Italy that he dubbed Goldrake.  Here’s some video of Ondra working the route:

CLIMBING EVENT SCHEDULE

·IFSC BOULDERING WORLD CUP Presented by Pyramide
A crowd favorite, this event features some of the best internationally-ranked climbers all climbing at the base of Vail mountain in the heart of Vail.
DATE: Friday, June 4, 2010 (Qualifiers); Saturday, June 5, 2010 (Semi-Finals & Finals)
TIME: Friday, June 4 @ 9am (Qualifiers); Saturday, June 5 @ 10am (Semi-Finals); Saturday, June 5 @ 3:45pm (Finals)
LOCATION: Mountain Plaza, Vista Bahn Lawn, Vail

·CITIZEN BOULDERING COMPETITION Presented by Pyramide
The object is to complete climbing problems which require a serious blend of gymnastic ability, superb concentration and grip strength. With 32 graded problems to choose from, competitors are scored by their best 4 ascents.
DATE: Sunday, June 6, 2010
TIME: 11am – 1:30pm (Wave 1); 2pm – 4:30pm (Wave 2)
LOCATION: Mountain Plaza, Vista Bahn Lawn, Vail

·YOUTH BOULDERING COMPETITION Presented by Pyramide
This competition showcases up and coming climbers who are developing the future of this sport. Amateur youth competitions will show their talents in a fun and exciting bouldering format. The object is to complete problems, which require a serious blend of gymnastic ability, superb concentration and grip strength. With 32 graded problems to choose from, competitors are scored by their best 4 ascents. (Open to competitors born in 1991 or before.)
DATE: Sunday, June 6, 2010
TIME: 8 – 10:30am
LOCATION: Mountain Plaza, Vista Bahn Lawn, Vail

Posted In: Bouldering, Interviews, News, News & Notes, Sport Climbing
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4 Responses to News & Notes – 4/14/2010

  1. Calvin April 14, 2010 at 9:21 am #

    Hey Narc, I was at Drive By the same day watching young Alex Johnson. Did you also see him on Super Charger? Guess I don’t know you by sight – what were you climbing? The 13a’s down by Beer Belly, etc?

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    • Narc April 14, 2010 at 9:27 am #

      Yeah I saw that as well. I was mostly spectating but I did get on Check Your Grip, Spirit Fingers and Whipstocking. It’s funny because I thought I overheard one of the names I’ve read on your blog but didn’t really put it together at the time. I think it was Yusuf but I’m not sure?? Based on a few pictures on your blog I’m pretty sure we were climbing right next to each other near the end of the day.

      Fun day to be at Drive by, that’s for sure.

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      • Calvin April 14, 2010 at 9:32 am #

        Yeah, was a great day. A little crowded, but not bad. My tent ended up flying away – glad I got it back.

        Yusuf is a good friend of mine, you two know each other? I tried Beer Belly for the fun of it and couldn’t pull the crux moves even after the beta spray down from someone. ha.

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        • Narc April 14, 2010 at 9:38 am #

          Yeah it was definitely a bit crowded. Fortunately I was in no hurry to actually climb anything.

          I do not know Yusuf but since his name is somewhat unique I remembered reading his name on your blog and I knew that you guys made trips to the Red so I thought there was an outside chance he might be the same person.

          Beer Belly looks FUN!

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