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Heather Weidner, writing on her blog after completing her first 5.14b with a repeat of Andy Raether’s Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b) in Rifle, CO:
The crux of Stockboys is about 2/3 up the route in what I call “The Bermuda Triangle.” At the route’s steepest section the rock converges into a triangular shape with many sloping surfaces and laughably small crimps. For me, the crux was a haunting 13-move boulder problem that I rarely escaped without falling.
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There’s the launch to the wide pinch, the back-twisting, shallow and insecure right knee bar, readjusting until your meniscus and hips scream.
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The sharp left crimp in the roof, the twisting and leaning out to a right-hand wide pinch…
Busy times along the Front Range as hard sends are going down at Rifle, Guanella Pass and Mt. Evans from the likes of Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Matty Hong and Jimmy Webb
According to his 8a scorecard, Jon Cardwell has repeated Bad Girls Club, a 5.14d in Rifle, CO first done last summer by Matty Hong.
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