Climbers Archives: Alex Megos

→ First 5.14d In Australia By Alex Megos∞

Posted August 19, 2013 at 10:26 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Great report with pictures from Simon Carter detailing how visiting climber Alex Megos ushered in Australia’s first 5.14d with his FA of Retired Extremely Dangerous in the Blue Mountains:

After taking the big whipper from the crux six or seven times Alex became frustrated. He lowered to the ground, pulled the rope, re-tied and immediately started climbing again.
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Somehow this tactic worked because this time he got through the crux — and it was a mighty fight to the end!
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Alex Megos – Das Pumpenhausen (V13) First Ascent

Posted July 25, 2013 at 9:24 am · Comments { 6 } ·
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→ Alex Megos Repeats Wheel Of Life∞

Posted July 9, 2013 at 8:44 am · Comments { 0 } ·

In what should be surprising news to no one at this point, Alex Megos has made quick work of Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians:

Though he hasn’t been here for long Megos hasn’t wasted any time, racking up what is almost certainly (and by a long way) the fastest ascent of the Wheel of Life (35/36) in the world-famous Hollow Mountain Cave.

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→ 3rd Ascent Of Corona (5.15a) By Alex Megos∞

Posted May 14, 2013 at 2:30 pm · Comments { 2 } ·

Alex Megos has done the 3rd ascent of Markus Bock’s Corona (5.15a) in Germany’s Frankenjura according to Frankenjura.com (in German).  Megos needed about 10 tries to climb the 60 ft.
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line.  This is his 3rd 5.15 after La Rambla in Siurana and his route Classified which is also in the Frankenjura.

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→ 5.15a FA By Alex Megos In The Frankenjura∞

Posted May 1, 2013 at 10:59 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Alex Megos makes his first First Ascent count with his recent FA of Classified in Germany’s Frankenjura:

The new route, a ~20m fiesta of small shallow pockets followed by even smaller shallower ones, is a direct exit to Guido Köstermeyer’s Des Mos, 8b+, and was bolted by Christian Bindhammer some 10 years ago.

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La Rambla (5.15a) 2nd Go By Alex Megos

Posted April 1, 2013 at 10:55 am · Comments { 13 } ·

Who is Alex Megos, and where did he come from?

Not long after his onsight of Estado critico (5.14d), Alex Megos continued his good form by redpointing La Rambla (5.15a) in just two tries according to this post in Spanish on Dani Fuertes’ blog.  Apparently a flash was not that far off, with Megos falling right near the top on his first go.
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 Megos also did A Muerte (5.14d) on his second try.

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Alex Megos’ Three Try Limit

Posted March 26, 2013 at 2:31 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Alex Megos, in an email to sponsor DMM, with some details on his onsight of Estado crítico (5.14d):

In that moment I didn’t think about having done something really outstanding. But after the send somebody asked me if this was the first 9a onsight and I said I don’t know and started to think about it.

The article goes on to mention that Megos generally only tries something three times before moving on. Clearly this works pretty well for him, what with him climbing over 100 routes and boulders 8a or harder during his recent U.
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S. trip and now this 5.14d onsight.

I was tempted to make some sort of joke about how I also only have a three try limit, but the reality is that if I don’t do something within the first two tries I’ll probably never do it…
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but that doesn’t keep me from trying.

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