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5.14d Birthday Present For Charlotte Durif

Literally as she was turning 21 years of age France’s Charlotte Durif redpointed PPP (5.14d) at Grotte de Galetas in France’s Verdon Gorge according to a posting on her website.  First done in 2010 by Adam Ondra, PPP is Durif’s first 5.14d making her likely only the second woman, after Josune Bereziartu, to ever climb a pitch given that grade.  Durif had previously done a couple of 5.
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14c’s including these two she did the FA of back in 2009.

Update:  Much has been made in a thread on 8a.nu about the fact that almost all European news outlets have not reported this news.  Cedric from the French site Kairn.com explains the reasoning behind this action in a comment posted below:

As we discovered that Charlotte is lying a lot about her claims, we decided with other website part of CWN (Climbing Web Network) such as UKClimbing, Belclimb, Klettern…) not to post anymore about her claims if we have no independent witness.
Several elements makes us think that again she did not do what she claims.
Even Beal and Petzl, her sponsors, did not post about her 8c onsight.
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She is strong, very strong. But she (and her father most of all) is lying too much.

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Plan For Development Near Red Rock Gets Initial Approval

Plan For Development Near Red Rock Gets Initial Approval

A proposed development near Red Rock gets initial approval

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News & Notes – 8/17/2011

News & Notes – 8/17/2011

News & Notes from Jonathan Siegrist, 5.14d and V14 in a week by Jorg Verhoeven, a hard mult-pitch gets repeated and MUCH more…

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New 5.13+ Multipitch By Trotter & Caldwell In Canada

Sonnie Trotter and Tommy Caldwell have teamed up to establish a 15 pitch route up the Diamond Face on Mount Louis in the Canadian Rockies.  Dubbed The Shining, the route has 7 pitches that were bolted on lead with difficulties up to 5.13+.  After three days of prep the pair returned to free all the pitches in a single push:

It is one of the best routes I have ever climbed, and I could not imagine having a better partner for it. In fact, if it were not for Tommy, it would definitely still be a project.  He’s my ultimate hero.

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PCI Pro Clinic Series

PCI Pro Clinic Series

Earlier this year I announced a partnership with PCI that was met with decidedly mixed reviews. While that partnership is still developing (perhaps a bit slower than expected), PCI is continuing to evolve and better define their mission. In this guest post from PCI founder Kevin Jorgeson he shares a bit more on PCI’s mission as well as their developing Pro Clinic series.

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Adam Ondra Repeats Monkey Wedding (V15)

Adam Ondra Repeats Monkey Wedding (V15)

Fresh off overall gold at the World Championships and quickly redpointing two 5.14d’s, Adam Ondra has taken his talents to Rocklands, South Africa

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Honnold Repeats Cobra Crack

Via his 8a.nu scorecard comes word that Alex Honnold has repeated the 5.14 trad route Cobra Crack in Squamish, BC. First done in the summer of 2006 by Sonnie Trotter, Cobra Crack has seen repeats from the likes of Nicolas Favresse, Ethan Pringle, Matt Segal, Yuji Hirahama and Will Stanhope among others.

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