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SLC Winter Tradeshow With Dave Graham

Posted February 17, 2012 at 6:13 am · Comments { 0 } ·
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New Free Climb On Mexican Big Wall By Alex Honnold

Posted February 13, 2012 at 10:08 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Climbing.com has the report on a trip Alex Honnold, Will Stanhope and Paul McSorley took to Mexico to climb on El Gran Trono Blanco.
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 Among other things the trip yielded a new 11 pitch 5.
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13 that was freed by Honnold:

“The route is fairly runout and will most likely never be downrated, if you know what I mean,” said photographer Andrew Burr. “It was mega-hot, and watching Alex negotiate the roof and heinously thin slab traverses in the heat was some of the most impressive leading either myself or Stanhope has ever witnessed.”

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Woods & Metcalf Repeat At 2012 Dark Horse Championships

Woods & Metcalf Repeat At 2012 Dark Horse Championships

Posted February 11, 2012 at 9:52 am · Comments { 3 } · Photo: Daniel Woods on his way to victory at the 2012 Dark Horse Championships by Pat Bagley

In a repeat of 2011, Daniel Woods and Francesca Metcalf win the finale of the Dark Horse Series

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Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One

Posted February 9, 2012 at 1:33 pm · Comments { 12 } ·

Ok.  Horrible title.  Forgive me.

Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font.  Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont.  This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.

Update:  Webb added a repeat of Gecko Assis (generally V14 but Webb thought V13) to close out his trip.  Four V13’s or harder in his first 6 days climbing in Font.
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 A world record!!

  1.  Unless I can count that 1 problem that is V10 for some people but not V10 for other people.  Then I’m only 98 behind! Yes! ↩
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Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth

Posted February 8, 2012 at 4:10 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard.  Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.
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14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist.  Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.

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Great News From Red Rock

Great News From Red Rock

Posted February 8, 2012 at 6:11 am · Comments { 1 } ·

News out of Red Rock regarding the proposed development at Blue Diamond Hill

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Alex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)

Posted February 7, 2012 at 10:12 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Alex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:

great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.

Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10’s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.
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Update:  Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent

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