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→ 5.14 On Mt. Hooker∞

Posted September 25, 2013 at 8:37 am · Comments { 0 } ·

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20 miles from the road, David Alfrey, Nik Berry and Mason Earle put up a free route on Wyoming’s Mt. Hooker with difficulties up to 5.14a:

“The rock is incredible for alpine stone, and for that matter it would be great rock anywhere,” Berry said. “The temps were perfect for sending, and [Hooker’s north face] was not as cold as people say.”

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LT11.tv Live Talkshow #3 – 9/25/13 – 6-7pm MDT

Posted September 24, 2013 at 9:48 pm · Comments { 23 } ·
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Sendtember In Full Effect On The Front Range

Sendtember In Full Effect On The Front Range

Posted September 24, 2013 at 8:49 am · Comments { 9 } · Photo: Daniel Woods climbing Bad Girls Club by Eddie Gianelloni

Busy times along the Front Range as hard sends are going down at Rifle, Guanella Pass and Mt. Evans from the likes of Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Matty Hong and Jimmy Webb

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→ Bel Succcesso∞

Posted September 23, 2013 at 8:46 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Final update from Dave MacLeod on his and Alan Cassidy’s attempts to climb Bellavista in the Italian Dolomites:

However, we had one day left. I just wanted to get the gear back and get home. Everything  was wrong and I felt a bit fed up to be honest. My ankle hurt on the walk-in, I couldn’t do certain movements with it on the rock, I’d had my fill of climbing wet rock or frozen rock, we’d not had even one good day to try it properly. Worst of all, it was baltic.

And Alan Cassidy on their last day’s efforts:

I was desperately blowing warm breath on my hands with every single move, pressing them against the warm flesh of the back of my neck and getting none the warmer. About 15m up at peg 3, I had a little moment, outwardly expressing my dissatisfaction with where I was:

– “It’s F**%$%^ so cold”

– “I don’t want to be here”

– “F%^* sake, this is so $%&t, nothing gets my hands warm”

– “these pegs are all so F%&*@£$”

They sent, obviously.

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 2 } · Areas { 1 }

→ Taming The Cobra∞

Posted September 23, 2013 at 8:25 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Nice piece by Brits Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker about their successful ascents of Sonnie Trotter’s Cobra Crack (5.14-) in Squamish, BC:

So where does this leave us, three weeks into a three-and-half week long trip? Was our training any good? Did The Cobra live up to expectations and did the Squamish Weather Gods smile down on us?
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1. I think so.
2. Oh yes.
3. We are forever in your debt.

∞ · Comments { 2 } · Climbers { 2 } · Areas { 1 }

LT11.tv Live Talkshow #2 – 9/19/13 – Reel Rock 8

Posted September 20, 2013 at 10:01 am · Comments { 19 } ·
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→ Save Oak Flat∞

Posted September 18, 2013 at 9:36 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Shit:

There is a vote scheduled for this Thursday, September 19th in the US House of Representatives on legislation that would trade away the popular Oak Flat climbing area in Arizona to Resolution Copper Mining, a foreign owned mining company. All 435 members of the House of Representatives will have the opportunity to cast a vote on this legislation, yet many of them know little or nothing about the bill–except what the bill sponsors have told them.

If this bill (HR 687) should become law, it will result in the largest loss of a climbing resource in the history of the United States.

The vote is tomorrow, so if you want to attempt to make your voice heard today is the day.

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