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Freak Moments

Posted March 14, 2013 at 8:57 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Daniel Woods, blogging for The Island about his outlook for 2013 as well as his attempts on Lucid Dreaming:

Bouldering requires failure to gain success. The majority of our days are failing, and then we get that freak moment when everything clicks and have success.
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In practice this rings true for most of us I think, but then I think about the fact that Woods has flashed V14 and climbed V14 and V15 in a day.  I guess things just click more often for some us?  Either way, this is a good post to read more about a time when things didn’t quite click for Woods.
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 Something tells me not to get used to this happening though.

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Amazing U.S. Trip By Alex Megos

Posted March 14, 2013 at 9:15 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Much like Toru Nakajima, Alex Megos is an under the radar bone crusher that I have somehow failed to post about up to this point.  I actually saw Megos climbing in the flesh back in November in the Red River Gorge when I saw this unassuming kid I didn’t recognize walk up two .
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12d’s in a row as a warmup in the same way I might climb a 5.
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6.  In a word:  effortless.

Once I got home I recognized him as the kid who flashed Pure Imagination (5.14c) in the Red and repeated The Fly (5.14d) in Rumney.  His trip was far from over though, and DPM has the rundown on the rest of his time stateside that saw him climb a lifetime’s worth of hard routes and boulders.

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Quick 2nd Ascent Of Bridge Of Ashes

Quick 2nd Ascent Of Bridge Of Ashes

Posted March 12, 2013 at 8:12 am · Comments { 3 } · Photo: Daniel Woods sending Bridge of Ashes via Bearcam's Instagram

Lest I get accused again of not giving him proper credit, please take note that Daniel Woods has made a quick second ascent of Dave Graham’s recently completed proposed V15 Bridge Of Ashes at Elkland in Estes Park, CO.  This according to this picture posted by Bearcam Media on Instagram.  No word yet on the grade, but the last two lines of this post on B3Bouldering sound about right to me.

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First 5.14 By 10-Year-Old Jonathan Hörst

First 5.14 By 10-Year-Old Jonathan Hörst

Posted March 11, 2013 at 6:05 pm · Comments { 15 } ·

Jonathan Hörst ticks his first 5.14 before he hits age 11

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Cristian Brenna Interview

Posted March 11, 2013 at 12:49 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Lots of great perspective from Italian legend Cristian Brenna in this excellent interview by Andrew Bisharat including this nugget dispelling what I think is a common misconception about many sponsored climbers:

You see a lot of climbers with badges sewn onto their pants, which gives the impression that they are professionals, but they get like five carabiners and some shoes. Yeah, they are sponsored but they don’t get money.

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Daniel Woods Does Not Repeat Lucid Dreaming

Posted March 9, 2013 at 12:25 pm · Comments { 30 } ·

Daniel Woods made an impromptu trip out to Bishop this week with the goal of doing the first repeat of Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming (V15).  Spoiler alert:  he did not send.
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 The story behind the failures are oftentimes more interesting than the stories behind the actual send though, so I enjoyed this piece on the RV Project blog recapping Woods’ efforts.

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The Bridge Of Ashes (V15) By Dave Graham

The Bridge Of Ashes (V15) By Dave Graham

Posted March 9, 2013 at 12:34 am · Comments { 2 } · Photo: Via Dave Graham's Instagram

Dave Graham has completed his long term project at Nicky’s Boulders AKA Elkland in Estes Park, CO just in time to avoid the impending snow storm set to hit Colorado’s Front Range.
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Dubbed The Bridge Of Ashes, this proposed V15 problem is the one Graham mentioned in his post earlier this week. I guess those sit-ups must have really paid off!

Look for video of the send in the near future, but until then enjoy a few pictures over at The Island.

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