Lucid Dreaming AKA Rastaman Vibration Sit Start FA By Paul Robinson

Lucid Dreaming AKA Rastaman Vibration Sit Start FA By Paul Robinson

The Bishop Bouldering Blog is reporting that Paul Robinson realized one of his long terms goals this morning when he pulled off the FA of the Rastaman Vibration Sit Start at the Buttermilks in Bishop, CA.  Located just left of the well-known highball Evilution on the massive Grandpa Peabody boulder, the Rastaman Vibration Sit Start project had eluded many strong climbers over the years until succumbing to Paul’s dedicated effort.

Here is what Wills Young had to say about the problem in his post on the Bishop Bouldering Blog:

This extreme problem with a crux move to gain and dyno from a small left-hand pinch at standing height, was disregarded as near-impossible by many top climbers–with only a handful ever sticking the dyno. The line, in full is thought to be at least v15 and Paul has suggested v16.

More to come at the Bishop Bouldering Blog (and presumably this fall’s Reel Rock Tour)

Update: Much more from Big Up including that Paul has named the line Lucid Dreaming:

The night he returned from Vegas, Paul slept fitfully. He dreamed that he called home and his father answered the phone. Paul saw himself training on his old basement wall in his parents’ house. Every hold was a small pinch, and he floated past them all. He woke at 4:30 with a sense of urgency, went to his laptop and checked the weather, and saw rain coming in a few hours, with the possibility of several grim days ahead. He grabbed pads, hurried to the boulder, and did five pullups to get warm. The pre-rain moisture in the air gave him just the slight stickiness he needed to control the pinch, and he climbed the problem on his second try, calling it Lucid Dreaming.

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11 Responses to Lucid Dreaming AKA Rastaman Vibration Sit Start FA By Paul Robinson

  1. Regan March 30, 2010 at 10:47 pm #

    But the real question is, who is Charlie Brensden…

    “09/12/04 Rasta Man sds… 8b Bishop FA 3 days, no top out”

    http://www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx?UserId=7967

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    • Narc March 31, 2010 at 6:44 am #

      When Paul was trying this problem a couple years ago people seemed to think Charlie’s scorecard was not real. Who can really say for sure though?

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  2. scotty March 31, 2010 at 12:30 pm #

    It’s a shame that the Nalle/Sharma crap is grabbing the attention away from this send. This could possibly be the most difficult problem in the known universe, and should be the focal point of attention here.

    Ugh, the internet.

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  3. toothbrush March 31, 2010 at 1:06 pm #

    I think it’s neat that on one hand there’s Eviloution – which gives the aura of Jason Kehl’s wicked style and then on the other is Lucid Dream – a small homage to a sad story. What a depressing boulder…Is that the same one that Ambrosia is on?

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    • Narc March 31, 2010 at 1:24 pm #

      That is correct

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    • Mathieu March 31, 2010 at 4:00 pm #

      What do you mean by “a sad homage to a sad story” ?…

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      • greg March 31, 2010 at 4:37 pm #

        read the big up blog about the problem.

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  4. Regan March 31, 2010 at 3:50 pm #

    The funny thing is a lot of people have known about the FRFM thing for ages and it has to ‘break’ right now… I’d personally like to know more about this problem thanks very much. Is there any video on the way?

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    • toothbrush March 31, 2010 at 6:15 pm #

      From the pics in the prAna blog it looks like there was camera gear around (and a big donut that made me hungry). I’d imagine they caught some of the attempts if not the FA.

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  5. greg March 31, 2010 at 11:59 pm #

    paul has a good blog post along with info regarding the FA footage over on his blog

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  1. prAna blog » Blog Archive » One of the hardest boulder problems on American soil? - March 30, 2010

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