The Bishop Bouldering Blog is reporting that Paul Robinson realized one of his long terms goals this morning when he pulled off the FA of the Rastaman Vibration Sit Start at the Buttermilks in Bishop, CA. Located just left of the well-known highball Evilution on the massive Grandpa Peabody boulder, the Rastaman Vibration Sit Start project had eluded many strong climbers over the years until succumbing to Paul’s dedicated effort.
Here is what Wills Young had to say about the problem in his post on the Bishop Bouldering Blog:
This extreme problem with a crux move to gain and dyno from a small left-hand pinch at standing height, was disregarded as near-impossible by many top climbers–with only a handful ever sticking the dyno. The line, in full is thought to be at least v15 and Paul has suggested v16.
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More to come at the Bishop Bouldering Blog (and presumably this fall’s Reel Rock Tour)
Update: Much more from Big Up including that Paul has named the line Lucid Dreaming:
The night he returned from Vegas, Paul slept fitfully. He dreamed that he called home and his father answered the phone. Paul saw himself training on his old basement wall in his parents’ house. Every hold was a small pinch, and he floated past them all. He woke at 4:30 with a sense of urgency, went to his laptop and checked the weather, and saw rain coming in a few hours, with the possibility of several grim days ahead. He grabbed pads, hurried to the boulder, and did five pullups to get warm.
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The pre-rain moisture in the air gave him just the slight stickiness he needed to control the pinch, and he climbed the problem on his second try, calling it Lucid Dreaming.