Rock & Ice has the details on Matty Hong doing the FA of a route Joe Kinder bolted and left as an open project last summer in Rifle, CO called Bad Girls Club:
What makes Bad Girls Club difficult is that it is stacked with difficult boulder problems, culminating with a V-double-digit boulder problem right at the lip of the 100-foot cave. Whether the mythic 5.14d grade will hold remains to be seen.
After following the careers of certain well-known American climbers like Chris Sharma and Dave Graham throughout the years one kind of starts to get the feeling like man, these guys have been everywhere. In some sense they have been fortunate enough to travel to seemingly most of the world’s great climbing destinations, but the reality is that world is still a pretty big place.
Literally as she was turning 21 years of age France’s Charlotte Durif redpointed PPP (5.14d) at Grotte de Galetas in France’s Verdon Gorge according to a posting on her website. First done in 2010 by Adam Ondra, PPP is Durif’s first 5.14d making her likely only the second woman, after Josune Bereziartu, to ever climb a pitch given that grade. Durif had previously done a couple of 5.
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14c’s including these two she did the FA of back in 2009.
Update: Much has been made in a thread on 8a.nu about the fact that almost all European news outlets have not reported this news. Cedric from the French site Kairn.com explains the reasoning behind this action in a comment posted below:
As we discovered that Charlotte is lying a lot about her claims, we decided with other website part of CWN (Climbing Web Network) such as UKClimbing, Belclimb, Klettern…) not to post anymore about her claims if we have no independent witness.
Several elements makes us think that again she did not do what she claims.
Even Beal and Petzl, her sponsors, did not post about her 8c onsight.
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She is strong, very strong. But she (and her father most of all) is lying too much.
Registration is now open for the 2011 UBC Pro Tour’s finale at the Nor’easter Outdoor Sports & Music Festival, the schedule for this weekend’s Munich World Cup as well as your Video Friday videos
A proposed development near Red Rock gets initial approval
News & Notes from Jonathan Siegrist, 5.14d and V14 in a week by Jorg Verhoeven, a hard mult-pitch gets repeated and MUCH more…
Sonnie Trotter and Tommy Caldwell have teamed up to establish a 15 pitch route up the Diamond Face on Mount Louis in the Canadian Rockies. Dubbed The Shining, the route has 7 pitches that were bolted on lead with difficulties up to 5.13+. After three days of prep the pair returned to free all the pitches in a single push:
It is one of the best routes I have ever climbed, and I could not imagine having a better partner for it. In fact, if it were not for Tommy, it would definitely still be a project. He’s my ultimate hero.
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