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Nina Caprez Repeats Mind Control (5.14c)

Nina Caprez Repeats Mind Control (5.14c)

Just a day or two after Daila Ojeda did the FFA of Mind Control (5.14c) at Oliana Nina Caprez succeeded in redpointing the route as well.  She calls the route a “perfect line” on her blog where she also had this to say about the grade:

The grade of Mind Control is really not extreme. If somebody will downgread, why not. But honestly, grades are so unimportant. I’ve had the chance to climb such a fantastic line and I feel so alive and my body is full of energy and power. I can realize my dreams, what else counts in live?

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Double Mind Control (5.14c) Send Day

Double Mind Control (5.14c) Send Day

It was a big day on the big wall at Oliana yesterday as both Daila Ojeda and Joe Kinder grabbed repeats of Chris Sharma’s Mind Control1, a stunning 5.14c most famous for being onsighted by Adam Ondra.  Big Up Productions is still out in Spain so look for footage of all this Spain stuff at, presumably, this year’s Reel Rock Tour.  Footage of Ojeda working Mind Control last year can be seen in this Sterling Rope spot.

  1. Mind Control now has two check marks on the unofficial list of reasons a hard route can be downgraded—it’s been onsighted and Joe Kinder climbed it a woman climbed it—so look for that in the near future.
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Adam Ondra Onsighting Mind Control (5.14c) In Oliana

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Another 5.14c Onsight For Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra is up to his old tricks, onsighting a 5.14c1 and doing the FA of a 5.14d according to this update he put together for PlanetMountain.  But what is perhaps most interesting is his revelation in an interview with 8a.nu that he was only recently able to complete his first one arm pull-up.  Multiple 5.14c onsights and 5.15b redpoints, repeats of several boulders in the V15-16 range and only now does he have the strength to pull off a one arm.

  1.  Footage of Gabriele Moroni on the FA of that line can be seen here
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DiGiulian & Spannuth Climbing Well In Oliana

DiGiulian & Spannuth Climbing Well In Oliana

It was another low gravity day (or days) at Oliana as Americans Sasha DiGiulian and Ben Spannuth both had good days over the weekend

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News & Notes – 3/7/2012

News & Notes – 3/7/2012

Everybody who’s anybody is climbing 5.14 in Spain right now

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Popular Posts & Videos For February 2012

Popular Posts & Videos For February 2012

It didn’t happen until the last weekend of the month, but February was dominated by the 2012 edition of ABS Nationals.

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