Archive | March, 2012

DPM Interview With Alex Johnson

DPM catches up with Alex Johnson for a wide-ranging interview about sexism, the balancing act between climbing in comps and climbing outside and sponsorship:

I think it should be difficult to get sponsored, like in surfing or snowboarding. We would have a more select group of positive role models and icons in our community for reasons other than just ability.
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Adam Ondra Interviewed By Mountains & Water

Great interview with Adam Ondra over at Mountains and Water:

I have always taken climbing really seriously. Climbing hard and obtaining my goals has always been very important. It was very difficult to admit failure and I did get frustrated. But at same time, it has always been a perfect and beautiful game to play.
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Woods, Saurwein Win 2012 Hueco Rock Rodeo

Woods, Saurwein Win 2012 Hueco Rock Rodeo

It’s no secret to anyone that has read this site over the years that I enjoy climbing comps.  And while I certainly enjoy indoor climbing comps, outdoor climbing comps are especially fascinating.  Where indoor comps pit competitors against one another on one-off boulder problems, outdoor comps allow climbers to repeat problems they’ve already done and […]

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DiGiulian & Spannuth Climbing Well In Oliana

DiGiulian & Spannuth Climbing Well In Oliana

It was another low gravity day (or days) at Oliana as Americans Sasha DiGiulian and Ben Spannuth both had good days over the weekend

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Video Friday – 3/9/2012

Video Friday – 3/9/2012

The highest rated videos of the past week…

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Dave MacLeod On The Issue Of Injury Lay-offs

Dave MacLeod touches on a topic I unfortunately have way too much experience with:  figuring out how much of a lay-off is necessary to recover from injury

The basic rationale for lay-off is to allow the tissue some rest and a chance to recover from it’s severely compromised state. There are quite a few assumptions built into the decision to completely rest the tissue. First, that the tissue will really benefit from complete withdrawal from the sport. Unfortunately, this isn’t strictly true.

Finish your book on injuries soon, Dave, before it’s too late for me!
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News & Notes – 3/7/2012

News & Notes – 3/7/2012

Everybody who’s anybody is climbing 5.14 in Spain right now

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