Archive | January, 2012
The Plot Thickens On Cerro Torre

The Plot Thickens On Cerro Torre

The plot thickens on Cerro Torre as Kennedy & Kruk’s “fair means” ascent of the Compressor route is quickly followed by David Lama’s first free ascent.

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Deep North: A Trip To The Arrigetch Peaks With Caldwell & Kennedy

Deep North: A Trip To The Arrigetch Peaks With Caldwell & Kennedy

Courtesy of Patagonia comes a short video of Tommy Caldwell & Hayden Kennedy exploring the Alaskan Bush

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Video Friday – 1/20/2012

Video Friday – 1/20/2012

It was an interesting week in the climbing movie space with the release of Wizard’s Apprentice and Park Life in quick succession.  These two movies in particular provided an interesting juxtaposition of styles.  On the one hand you had the LT11 crew psyched and feeding off each other’s energy as they bouldered as a group in Yosemite, […]

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Understanding Patagonia

The news from the other day aside, things happening in Patagonia are usually outside my purview.  It’s not that I don’t respect what climbers do there, it’s more that I have a hard time identifying with what it must be like to climb there since I’ve never done anything like it.  Posts like this one from Mikey Schaefer that combine a story about a new route on the south face of Poincenot with some incredible photos sure do help though.

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More From Honnold On Too Big To Flail

Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:

This might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.

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Defining Your Style

Defining Your Style

Carlo Traversi shares his thoughts on defining one’s climbing style in a recent interview for The Bouldering Book

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Kennedy & Kruk Climb Compressor Route By “Fair Means”

A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder.
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No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…

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