Kennedy & Kruk Climb Compressor Route By “Fair Means”

A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder. No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…

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5 Responses to Kennedy & Kruk Climb Compressor Route By “Fair Means”

  1. Jeff Meagher January 18, 2012 at 11:35 pm #

    What a great accomplishment for these two guys.  To climb such an infamous line with such style is something to be admired by all people in the community.  Great work guys.

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  2. Neil Roessler January 20, 2012 at 11:55 am #

    I have also heard reports that the two chopped the bolts off the headwall and one of the pitches below: 
    http://rockandice.com/news/1777-the-compressor-route-is-no-more   

    A big change from the debacle surrounding David Lama two years ago. 

    http://breakinginmyshoes.wordpress.com/ 

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    • TheDanDan January 20, 2012 at 5:39 pm #

      Is the act of chopping the bolts really any less arrogant than placing them?

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      • Neil Roessler January 22, 2012 at 3:37 pm #

        That is a very valid point. This reminds me of the “crew” that removed the fixed draws at the Red to “lessen the impact of climbers on the area.” I wonder what comments Kennedy and Kruk would give for their reasons for chopping the bolts?

        I do find it interesting that in one respect, the climbing community has been decrying the bolts on the compressor route for decades as an affront to the natural beauty of the mountain. But at the same time, as soon as something is done about them, their attitudes changed regarding the historical and practical value of the bolts, not to mention that it is an insult to the climbing community. 

        http://gregcrouch.com/2012/the-compressor-route-chopped-more-thoughts 

        This debate is definitely just beginning in the blogosphere. 

        breakinginmyshoes.wordpress.com

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  3. lstefurak January 23, 2012 at 1:02 pm #

    More info in a spanish article about the bolt chopping. looks like just over 100 bolts were removed:
    http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lacachania.com.ar%2Fnoticia.php%3Fid_nota%3D185%26id_seccion%3D1

    From: http://www.lacachania.com.ar/noticia.php?id_nota=185&id_seccion=1

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