Archive | October, 2011

5.14b In Rifle By Emily Harrington

The historic season of sending in Rifle continues as Climbing reports that Emily Harrington repeated Joe Kinder’s Waka Flocka (5.14b), her first of the grade in Rifle.

Update – More from Harrington on her blog:

I learned alot from climbing on Waka Flocka.  I learned how to climb more powerfully, to try harder, and to have patience.  Like Chris said, every route is a process, and even the mental aspects don’t come easily.  Most importantly though, I realized through this experience how important climbing is to me.  I went through a phase a few years ago where I wasn’t sure if climbing was my true passion, or if I’d just gone down that path subconsciously because I didn’t know any different.
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 It took several years to realize how much I care about this sport and the lifestyle that goes along with it.
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 I am fortunate to have this life, and I wouldn’t want it any different.

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The Key To Being World Cup Champion?

With Austrian climbers winning the recent sport climbing World Cup in Boulder as well as the overall Boulder World Cup title, you might be wondering what their secret to success is.  In an appearance on Boulder’s ClimbTalk Radio Show World Cup Champ Kilian Fischhuber let us in on this key tip:

I always climb my problems on my last try.  And I keep doing that.  It’s really cool.

Ok, maybe there’s more to being a World Cup champion than that, but check out the rest of the transcript of the interview for a fun conversation with Fischhuber, Anna Stöhr, Chuck Fryberger, Cody Roth and Jonathan Siegrist.

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3rd Annual Dark Horse Series

3rd Annual Dark Horse Series

As fall wears on and winter starts to rear its ugly head, many of us head for the friendly confines of our local gym.buy nolvadex online https://www.clerkenwellislingtonclinics.co.uk/wp-content/languages/themes/new/nolvadex.html no prescription  While the cold, dark days can be a bit on the depressing side there is one aspect of the winter climbing season many of us look […]

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Dawn Wall 2011

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson returned to Yosemite late last month to resume work on their Dawn Wall project. Unfortunately, Kevin has been sidelined, at least temporarily, by an ankle injury sustained while working one of the pitches. Tommy is still there doing his thing though, and in this piece for the Cleanest Line he talks about what drives him to work on projects like this:

The formula is pretty set. Dream up a climbing trip or pick a climbing objective, then direct my life towards that goal… whatever it takes. I have come to depend on the stress and pain.
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For me, a day without suffering is like a day without sunshine. I stuff my gnarled, fungus infested feet into shoes three sizes too small and climb until my fingers bleed. And if that wasn’t enough I have decided I prefer to do this on really big climbs where the pain can stretch on for days, weeks, even months.
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You can follow their progress by following Tommy and Kevin on Twitter, by checking out the El Cap Report or better yet just waiting for me to share any updates I come across.

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More V15s From Ondra & Woods

Adam Ondra and Daniel Woods each add proposed V15s to Petrohrad and Magic Wood respectively

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Alex Honnold: “I hardly ever do anything badass”

Alex Honnold has been getting a lot of attention lately, likely related to that TV show you might have seen him on. This recent interview he did with Trails Edge has several interesting nuggets including this one about what his life is like most days:

All I do is live my normal life and do my normal thing. I go out everyday and go climbing. People see a very cherry-picked thing, they don’t see the tons of days I go out there and totally suck.
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I hardly ever do anything badass. It’s just that when I do, it all happens on film. That’s the thing about climbing: at any level you’re always pushing yourself.
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So everybody, no matter how good they are, always feels like they suck because they’re always on some harder and harder project.

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Pure Imagination (5.14d) Repeated By Sasha DiGiulian

Pure Imagination (5.14d) Repeated By Sasha DiGiulian

Sasha DiGiulian continues to amaze, this time repeating a 5.14d in the Red River Gorge

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