What’s In The Mags:  October 2010

What’s In The Mags: October 2010

Welcome back to a developing feature I’m calling What’s In The Mags.  The idea is to give a brief recap of what’s happening with all the major climbing print publications in the U.S.  You can check out September’s edition here and below you’ll find a brief recap of what was in the latest issues of Urban ClimberClimbing and Deadpoint Magazine.

Urban Climber #43 – October 2010

Urban Climber #43 - October2010

Urban Climber #43 - October 2010

What’s on the cover:

Angie Payne on The Automator (V13) in RMNP, CO – Photo by John Dickey

Featured Articles:
  • Stills from the Reel Rock Tour Films
  • The World According to Angie Payne by Andrew Tower- Lengthy feature interview of Angie Payne after her historic FFA of The Automator (V13)
  • Real Grit by Andy Mann – Portrait piece
  • Hueco Dream Digs by Abbey Smith – Profile of Ty Foose’s home near Hueco Tanks
Other Notables:
  • Profile of the Chloé Graftiaux who tragically lost her life in a fall back in August
  • The Cerro Torre controversy
  • Profiles of Amanda Berezowski, Jason Kehl, Alex Savage and Jamie Emerson
  • Four steps to stronger sending
  • Mesa Rim gym in San Diego, CA
My Pick:

My favorite part about this issue of UC was not the content (although the Angie Payne story and other articles were well worth reading) but rather UC’s new, much cleaner layout.  It’s clear they listened to reader feedback as the new layout shies away from the overly busy backgrounds that made previous issues actually difficult to read.  If you haven’t checked out Urban Climber lately now might be a good time to give it another shot.

Climbing #289 – October 2010

Climbing #289 - October 2010

Climbing #289 - October 2010

What’s on the cover:

Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell on their Dawn Wall project on El Cap – Photo by Corey Rich

Featured Articles:
  • Stoney Point by Cole Gibson – A look at the history of climbing at Southern California’s Stoney Point including a brief topo of 30 of the author’s area favorites.  Check out this excellent video for more.
  • The Project by Dougald MacDonald – Interview with Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson about their massive free climbing project on El Capitan
  • The Colossus by Steve Bartlett – Climbing chossy towers in the Utah desert
Other Notables:
  • Hot Flashes interviews Angie Payne after her FFA of The Automator and chronicles the first free climb of a legendary wall in Norway
  • Off The Wall – Climbing in Iraq and rebuilding the Snowbird Hut in Alaska
  • Ten Things you didn’t know the 3rd Flatiron
  • Players Profile of Matt Maddaloni
  • Tech tips on coiling a rope, extending your rappel device and rodeo clipping
  • Classic Climbs – Snake Dike (5.7 R) on Half Dome in Yosemite, CA
  • Mileage – Bouldering in Tinos, Greece
My Pick:

It was hard for me not to enjoy the cover story on Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell.  I had the chance to meet them both when I was in Yosemite and to say they are psyched about what they are doing would be an understatement.  The story does a good job of finding out right from the source what is driving them.  Cool stuff.

Deadpoint Magazine 13 – Nov.-Dec. 2010

Deadpoint Magazine 13 - Nov.-Dec. 2010

Deadpoint Magazine 13 - Nov.-Dec. 2010

Featured Articles:
  • Cali-Lime by Anthony Lapomardo – Exploring amazing looking bouldering in Sonora, CA.  Be sure to check out the video that goes with the magazine piece.
  • Access Adventure by Mikey Williams – A humorous walk through some of the decisions climbers make on a daily basis that affect access to climbing areas
  • Ibex, Utah by Christine Balaz – A look at the history of this isolated Utah bouldering destination including some helpful topos
  • Brazil Bouldering by Jon Cardwell – A photo essay about Cardwell’s recent trip Brazil.  Be sure to check out the accompanying video of his FA of House In The Sky (V14).
Other Notables:
  • Report from the Hound Ears Triple Crown stop
  • Profile of Mike Foley
  • Holiday gift guide
  • Climbing personality quiz by Eric Horst
My Pick:

This issue was Deadpoint’s “Photo & Video Annual” and this is where their hybrid print/online format really works well for them.  The article by Anthony Lapormardo about the bouldering near Sonora, CA was interesting to read and the addition of a free online companion video was a nice bonus.

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