According to Vojtech Vrzba and 8a.nu 17 year-old Adam Ondra has done the 2nd ascent of Golpe de Estado (5.15b) on the beautiful limestone of Siurana, Spain. Golpe de Estado, which adds a bouldery 5.14d start to the 5.14c/d (or 5.14d, see below) Estado Critico, took some perseverance on Ondra’s part as he suffered a minor finger injury on a trip to Spain about a month ago. Pending his thoughts on the grade, Golpe is likely the hardest route Ondra has done…and he’s done tons of them.
You’ll recall that Golpe de Estado was first done in late 2008 by Chris Sharma. There is an excellent clip of Sharma working the route from Dosage V at the Big Up website.
Adam Ondra Golpe de Estado photo gallery
Update: More details from Czech Climbing:
“Golpe de estado“ is direct variant of the route “Estado critico” 9a (5.14d).
The first part of the route is 9a+ (5.15a). Then the route continues by “Estado critico”, that is after broken of a hold again 9a (5.14d) and in the new form it has not got any ascent up to now.
The first sender and creator of the route Chris Sharma had climbed it before the hold broke away. And what is Adam´s opinion about the grade: „After the hold was broken it is hard 9b (5.15b)“
Update 2: Here is what Adam had to say about the route on his scorecard:
HUGE relief for me, mission accomplished despite various obstacles – notoriously strong wind, injury, flu and stomach ache just before the second trip (thus I was out of shape). After first day in the route I did not expect I would have to dedicate so much time, but proved to be really hard and mischievous.
29 tries (mental torture for me!) during 14 days, but some days only go when I found out it is just too windy to climb at 6th bolt. I do not say it is hard 9b after breaking the hold, but 100% it is 9b now (a bit harder than Marina)
It will be interesting to see what Adam has to say about the route.
The dude is so strong, I can’t wait to witness his progression and direction he takes climbing
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Sup Narc, nice work on the post. Didn’t Adam do something a while back that he rated 5.15b as well? An F/A in a cave or something? Either way it’s insane how fast that kid moves around doing everything he tries. Unbelievable when u stop and think about it! I’d say he’s got a future. Keep up the good work.
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Hey Sonnie, thanks for the comment. I think with the previous route Ondra thought it might be .15b, but he was going to be conservative and go with .15a/b until he could try some other hard routes. He specifically mentioned on his scorecard that he was looking to compare it with some of Sharma’s proposed .15b’s. Should be interesting to see what he has to say as well as what he’s able to accomplish in the future.
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So this would be the first confirmed 9b then, right? sWEET.
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Excellent point. Of the myriad proposed .15b’s and harder I can’t think of any others that have seen repeats.
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http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=8512
After 10 days of practising (3 attempts each day), sometimes during hard severe wind, Czech 17 years old phenomenal climber Adam Ondra climbed up to now his hardest route „Golpe de estado“ 9b.
After Chris Sharma he did the 2nd ascent of the route.
„Golpe de estado“ is direct variant of the route “Estado critico” 9a.
The first part of the route is 9a+. Then the route continues by “Estado critico”, that is after broken of a hold again 9a and in the new form it has not got any ascent up to now.
The first sender and creator of the route Chris Sharma had climbed it before the hold broke away. And what is Adam´s opinion about the grade: „After the hold was broken it is hard 9b“.
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Interesting, sharma says that the start is probably 8c+/9a, czechclimbing says the start is 9a+.
Anyway, crazy 🙂
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Chris is probably sandbagging. Or it is his style. Or both. Chris seems to be rather conservative with his grades, now that he started to gradr anyway. He is still THE MAN! Oh and congratulations to Adam!
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Thanks the author for article. The main thing do not forget about users, and continue in the same spirit.
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Last interview with Adam Ondra about Golpe: http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=8540
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