The spring thaw continues here in Wisconsin, and if last year was any sort of trend the climbing season should be on at Devil’s Lake for the next 8 months or so. I’d be more excited about this development if a) I had done any sort of meaningful training this winter and b) the finger injury I was resting all winter felt any different than it did back in November. WHY???
But enough about me. Here are some News & Notes from people who are out there getting things done:
- At the Jailhouse crag in California, Natasha Barnes redpointed Assassin (5.13d) while Alex Honnold redpointed Hacktivism (5.14b) and a new link-up he called Knee To Mile (5.14b). In total, Honnold has now done 7 5.14b’s; all but one coming at the Jailhouse.
- GP Salvo has done the first repeat of Tactile Style, a desperate V13 on West Mountain at Hueco Tanks that was first done by Chris Sharma in Dosage IV.
- Dean Potter checks in with an interesting post on the Five Ten blog:
Security was the main thing that lacked in my life. As I push towards more and more ultimate dreams on the rock, in the air and on the line I need stability, something to return to. These next years I plan on traveling the world looking for enchanted places where the ultimate in natural-human achievement can be reached. I want to fly free!
- Hard new routes are getting done at Colorado’s Shelf Road
- It’s not often that an ad on TV causes me to do a double take as I fast forward past it with my DVR, but this American Express commercial featuring Yvon Chouinard was a rare exception:
- The HP40 Rocks Comps was a big success with 150 competitors and some 200 spectators on hand to raise over $2500 for various charities. Brad Weaver won the open division by completing an impressive 24 problems rated V7 or harder.
- Simon Carter shares a series of excellent photos of a new 5.14b in Australia’s Blue Mountains.
- Peter Beal takes an insightful look at volume 1 of the autobiography of Royal Robbins:
Readers looking for climbing narrative will be relatively disappointed. Though the book is bracketed by beautifully written accounts of Robbins’ groundbreaking solo on the Leaning Tower, its value lies elsewhere.
- Access Alert for New York State Parks
- Kelly Cordes shares the story from his recent accident that left him with a severely injured leg
- Andy Mann shares how he constructed an image of GP Salvo attempting Nagual in Hueco Tanks
- Rock climbing game coming to the Nintendo Wii?
- Cool video of the bouldering in Varazze, Italy
- It’s never too early to get excited about the alpine climbing season in Colorado. I know I’m already getting excited for our brief visit in early July.
- For climbers in the Frontrange or Dallas, here is an event coming up in April where you can help raise money for young adults with cancer:
When a finger injury does not improve after several months of rest something might be permanently damaged. Maybe an operation is needed. Did you see a doctor about it?
My finger injury healed quickly while climbing jugs 2 times a week for about 2 months (not very motivating..). This increases blood flow to the finger without stressing it.
But hey, everyone is different and im no expert.
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The problem is actually within my knuckle from when I cracked it some 9 years ago so it behaves a bit differently than your run of the mill pulley strain. I think the main problem is that my months of rest are broken up too frequently with spurts of trying much too hard. My mind thinks I can try harder than my body would like and I have a hard time pacing myself in that mindset.
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