Chris Sharma Sends ‘Golpe De Estado’ (5.15b?) In Siurana

Chris Sharma Sends ‘Golpe De Estado’ (5.15b?) In Siurana

Posted December 17, 2008 at 12:02 pm · Comments { 27 } · Photo: Said Belhaj

Chris Sharma has climbed a direct start to Ramon Julian Puigblanque’s route Estado Critico (5.14c/d) at Siurana, Spain.  The direct start, dubbed Golpe de Estado, adds a section of 5.14d climbing straight into Estado Critico with only minor rest.  After some thought, Sharma the climbing media (with assistance from Dani Andrada) has suggested a grade of 5.15b for this new line.  You can see footage of him working this route in Dosage V.  Looks sick…and fun!

Old photo of Chris Sharma on the “rest” separating his direct start from the main part of Estado Critico

chrises

Photo:  Said Belhaj

You can (try to) read more at Dani Andrada’s spanish language blog.  Daila Ojeda’s new english language blog has confirmation as well.

I’m sure we’ll hear more about the ascent in the coming days.

Update:  The Big Up blog has a few more details as well as a 3 minute video clip from Dosage V of Sharma working the line.  BTW, how awesome is the resolution on that video!  Very nice!

Posted In: News, Sport Climbing
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  • Ryan J

    you can see dani and chris FLAILING on the route in ‘Fanatic Search.’ Looks REALLY hard!

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  • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

    Cool, hadn’t seen that movie before. Trailer here:

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  • Situner

    Total fan-boy comment, but if we could somehow spread Sharma’s ability across the climbing population equally, EVERYONE would be climbing AT LEAST V6.

    The dood is unstoppable!

    I hope he remains healthy and pushing it for several years to come!

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  • Situner

    Also, Link was WELL worth watching.

    That movie looks SICK.

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  • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

    For whatever reason, climbing films made in Europe don’t get nearly the attention they deserve here in the States. I think many of them would be of interest to an American audience if we knew about them.

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  • http://www.straightouttabedlamv7-2.blogspot.com sock hands

    i actually think that this trailer was linked on 8spray.spew, or maybe even in the news section of mvm. it does indeed look good, though. i think a large part of the international video iron curtain is due to marketing and availabilty… i don’t think that the euro companies bend over backwards to sell their wares here and it’s usually obnoxious to navigate foreign sites to order stuff. that said, i haven’t visited the site for this video to see how easy or not easy ordering would be.

    since i bought the mvm dvd subscription and dosage 5 and obtained a copy of first ascent, i nominate SI TUNER to purchase all foreign climbing films for the parker/lone tree crew video library.

    i’ll even let you borrow “contact” the old new zealand flick, just to get things going.

    woots, bitches, woots

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    • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

      I like this idea BTW. Each community should have designated people that will go out and buy different movies so that collectively EVERYONE can see EVERY movie. I think this is something Obama could work into his stimulus plan, no?

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  • red

    Granted the Euro climbing video web sites aren’t on par with what we have in the US, but I have to say their quality of service has been outstanding. I picked up the Brit video showcasing McClure and the trilogy of Work Less, Climb More videos from France with all the lost 2007-2008 Sharma footage. The French videos are in PAL so I’m only able to watch them on non-region PC DVD player. I recommend supporting these guys despite their accent and penchant for rolling their own web sites.

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  • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

    That’s a good point red.

    Part of the problem for me is that given how much each movie costs, I’m not inclined to buy more than a couple of movies each year. Since buying a Big Up release each year is a given, that doesn’t leave much room for all the other good movies that come out.

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  • Ryan J

    Narc,

    2 must buys from across the pond are Psyche (purely for SteMac, the rest is eh…) and Fanatic Search. The Bathang segment on HardXS is dope too. If Alastair Lee couple that with Steve’s Psyche segment, i would def pony up some $$ even with the shite exchange to pounds…

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    • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

      I think I saw part of Psyche, the Steve Mac stuff is really good. I’m not that into watching people ice climb though.

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  • http://www.straightouttabedlamv7-2.blogspot.com sock hands

    narc: note that communal sharing of videos will not *stimulate* our movie makers and massive sharing of climbing dvds is probably why they cost 30 bones. of course, i suggested it, but just a counterpoint to my own point. not sure how much net gain josh, mc, and others have per year… based on recent comments on big up’s blog, i suspect that it will not fund a new space program. i’ve been trying to get better about NOT pirating dvds for my personal 5:36am morning session collection to make sure that new titles keep coming out.

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    • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

      Yeah, on second thought my comment was pretty dumb. Maybe I should just make it disappear :)

      I have always felt a lower price for movies could be made up with an increase in volume, but I don’t really know much about the economics of a climbing movie.

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    • Josh

      We Need Stimulation! And I don’t mean economic.
      -JL

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      • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

        Don’t we all!

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  • sweapants

    My point exactly.

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  • http://mountainsandwater.blogspot.com/ peter b

    I find the cost of climbing movies is difficult to justify. They tend not to age well. The videos that I like tend to feature straightforward footage of problems I would like to do sometime. So Colorado Daydream, depsite JE’s mohawk and BC’s accounting class footage, has proven to be well worth the cost. Hard Grit is OK too, though I will never do the routes. The Internet is the way to go with this ephemeral category. When will MVM start releasing full-screen video a la Vimeo?

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    • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

      Good point Peter. The Dosage videos haven’t aged too poorly, but aged they have. It’s just a natural evolution of the sport I guess.

      I think a list of the bizarre and random footage added to old climbing movies could be quite funny.

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  • http://www.straightouttabedlamv7-2.blogspot.com sock hands

    note: big up just posted a cool mini video on its front page of east coast bouldering, featuring crizzlebitch and everyone’s favorite salo!

    i broke this news before the narc. game set match. i win.

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    • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

      I claim technical interference by the work overlords. Big Up’s website is blocked at work!! How am I supposed to stalk the happenings?!?

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  • http://www.straightouttabedlamv7-2.blogspot.com sock hands

    also, those kids should get some muiras if they want to heel hook stuff. sheesh. self-flagilate much?

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  • http://www.straightouttabedlamv7-2.blogspot.com sock hands

    also, i disagree w/ peteface. when i weigh the cost of a climbing dvd with the total number of times that i am likely to play it while trying to wake up before an early early session, or while doing my morning 15 minute work out, i find that the cost is nanocents versus the admission price to a theater or the cost of a dinner out, or the cost of any number of miserable things that break in your house and bring absolutely no lasting joy.

    if it wasn’t for energetic climbing dvd footage, i could hardly motivate in the morning to pull on my sixty. seriously. music has the advantage of not captivating you adn distracting you from actually training but for some mental reason, having climbing dvds on in the morning wakes me up much better than coffee…. and when the footage turns to something lame like a route, i often play little games like trying to hang or keep climbing for the entire duration of the route footage… mental games… keeps it interesting?

    in any event, i’d rather one climbing dvd for christmas than any two hollywood movies, that’s for sure…

    in closing, i’d like to mention that you all… ALL.. will purchase rocky mountain highball when it comes out in february. if you do not, you will be punished with fists! and you bet your ass there will be inspections! inspections and beatings. be warned.

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  • Dick Fitzenceider

    Those Euro cats are probably thrilled someone stateside buys one of their movies much less spreads it around. My experience may differ from others, but after translating it only adds to the humorous air that surrounds 8a. Nalle is definitely fun to watch progress (and stilt the universal post-send interview away from the fact his resend took as much time to refamiliarize with as some of his harder sends first go round.)

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  • peter

    Narc-
    I like your point about the financial concerns of high/low prices. In a situation where there’s an abundance of consumers, it seems to make sense to accept that not everyone is going to buy your product and just charge higher prices for those who do. Climbing films (even more than climbing shit in general, if that’s possible) seem to be a product where producers can’t afford NOT to have EVERYONE purchase videos. Of course, I don’t know anything about this but if I were to start a company I think that my business plan would entail low cost production and distribution leading to low price videos sold at front counters of climbing gyms across the nation.

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  • http://www.straightouttabedlamv7-2.blogspot.com sock hands

    the more i think about it…. it has worked for mad rock and when evolvs were cheap, them too. look at all the kids in the climbing gym.. if not sponsored, they usually are sporting evolv or madrock. maybe the cheap = mass sales concept would apply for climbing videos as well? perhaps big up could experiment with a cheap vid, and if volume does not more than compensate for lost revenue on each sale, then they can go back to the thirty bones deal.

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  • mock daniels

    what is a direct start? i see that everywhere about how someone has made a route harder, but to be honest i don’t get it

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  • http://www.straightouttabedlamv7-2.blogspot.com sock hands

    often a route will originally take the path of least resistance, which may result in a line that cuts diagonally across a wall rather than taking a direct bottom to top path. these direct starts simply begin in such a way as to avoid the traversing nature of the original. in bouldering, a good example is ode to the modern man versus super gui. both are ultra classic, but super gui involves traversing in to the obvious left exit about 15 feet or so, while ode starts directly beneath the obvious exit and blasts more or less straight up through it.

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