News & Notes – 10/1/2008

News & Notes – 10/1/2008

  • Rocktoberfest hits the Red River Gorge next weekend, October 10-12.  Reel Rock Tour, tons of free swag and of course a huge party…and climbing too!  Register soon to guarantee yourself one of the sweet swag bags.  If you use my referral code of 68145 when you sign up (and I win something cool) I will be sure to buy you an Ale 8 or something.  Here is a full schedule:

6pm : Vendors open for your perusing pleasure
8pm : Short Movies and Party
9am-5pm : The Clip and Go competition begins in the PMRP – Sore Heel Hollar
6pm : Dinner’s served, thanks to Bourbon and Toulouse; Vendors open for your perusing pleasure
8pm : Reel Rock Tour Movie Special
7pm-Into the night : Music to move to.. Slant Kings, 23 Strings Band and more..
8am : Breakfast served thanks to Climbers for Christ
10am : Clinics head out

  • The big news last week in the world of hard bouldering is of course Ty Landman repeating Chris Sharma’s Practice Of The Wild (V15) in Magic Wood, Switzerland.  As usual, Ty has a coherent and well thought out blog entry on the process of sending this problem.  Look for video to surface soon.


Photo:  Moonclimbing

  • The UK’s James Pearson continues to prove his all-around game.  He recently established Walk Of Life (E12) which involves dicey mid-5.14 slab climbing with scant protection!  Hot Aches was there to capture it all on tape for their upcoming Committed Vol. 2.


Photo:  Hot Aches Productions

  • The unfortunate mess that is the upcoming “Bouldering Colorado” guidebook continues.  Accusations of negligence and elitism are being thrown back and forth with the latest salvo coming from author Bob Horan himself.  In a blog entry on Falcon’s website he takes Jamie Emerson to task for being Mr. “B3 Know It All”.  Stay classy Bob.
  • is considering closing up shop??  As a sole proprietor of this blogsite I can attest to the amount of work and psych required to keep things going.  I hope that the community of setters that visit will be able to step in and convince Mike to keep things running.  I know that I’ve enjoyed many of the discussions that have taken place there.
  • Tim Kemple has some interesting thoughts on the state of the professional action sports photography business.
  • Nicros/Five Ten Nic has a new blogsite.  Check it out and encourage him to update it more often!
  • I’ve always wanted to visit Mallorca and this cool trip report on the DWS action there only increases that desire.
  • Check out this video of ODub climbing the burly roof crack Hidden Dragon (5.12c) at the Red River Gorge:


This weekend we will be in MN for the 16th anniversary party at VE St. Paul followed by bouldering at Taylor’s Falls.  Hope to see some of the MN readers up there!

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6 Responses to News & Notes – 10/1/2008

  1. Lee Cujes October 1, 2008 at 10:42 pm #

    Hey Narc, what’s the deal with you putting a question mark after the grade of E12 on James Pearson’s send? You’re doing exactly what you have taken to task for in the past. James graded the route E12 7a. He didn’t put a question mark after it. So that’s the grade. You putting a question mark devalues James’ efforts whether you realize it or not. Unless you are going to put a question mark after each and every FA grade from here on out, I’d say fix it!

    Lee Cujes

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  2. Narc October 2, 2008 at 6:10 am #

    Fair enough.

    As an outside observer though, it seems a bit odd to basically completely bypass the E11 grade. The only E11 I am aware of would be Rhapsody and the grade of that seems a bit in question. It’s like people coming out and proposing V16 for a boulder problem when there are hardly any V15s. I often question these sorts of proposed grades (not that my opinion counts for much).

    I also don’t really take 8a to task for suggesting downgrading, but rather the way they go about most of their suggestions.

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  3. Sarah October 2, 2008 at 11:24 am #

    Do you still have room in your car for Rocktober Fest?

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  4. Narc October 2, 2008 at 11:32 am #

    Quite possibly. Are you feeling less broken?

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  5. Sarah October 2, 2008 at 2:06 pm #

    Yep. The swelling is way down (I can see my ankle bone again) and I’ve been doing my PT exercises, so I’ve reconsidered my decision not to go.

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  6. Narc October 2, 2008 at 2:13 pm #

    word, give us a call to discuss details, we won’t be in the gym much before we leave.

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