Just climbed La Force Tranquille V15 in Magic Wood!! Had a devastating fall from the easy top slab because a hold broke, but managed to pull it together and climb it again next try all the way to the top! One of the best hard boulders in the world!!
Nalle Hukkataival, writing on his blog about a problem called The Understanding that he just opened in Magic Wood, Switzerland:
This beautiful project caught my eye the very first time I saw it on my first trip to Magic Wood back in 2004 and being one of the most striking lines in Magic Wood, it’s hard to walk past it without at least giving it a thought. It’s one of the first lines ever brushed in Magic Wood and over 10 years later it still hasn’t seen an ascent. Until today!
No mention of the all important grade, but looking at Hukkataival’s 27 Crags ticklist one can see that he has done almost 50 V14s or harder so it will be interesting to see where he comes out on this problem.
Life has some pretty crazy twists and turns in the last couple months. This time around the story starts with my epic skiing accident that crunked out my left knee, then delves into the making of The Island Volume One, and then follows my last month of country hoping out here in Europe. Life is good! I hope you all enjoy!
I’m not sure what happened, but Graham somehow fails to mention that one time I said what’s up to him at SCS Nationals. Five Ten must have edited that out I guess.
On a related note, Graham is in Switzerland where he did the 2nd ascent of The Full Circle, a V14 established by Nalle Hukkataival. Graham comments on 8a:
Super syked to climb this rig. Crazy tension moves, resistant, and on not the best grips, shits not easy! Brushed it up with Moix and crew, then battled it out over next three rainy days, and somehow sent it! STOKED! First hard boulder post ski accident/ knee destruction. 2nd ascent, just hours after Nalle did the FA.
The annual bouldering World Cup at the newly renamed GoPro Mountain Games in Vail, CO has come and gone. As usual, it was an exciting show filled with an above average presence from some of America’s top boulderers.
- Akiyo Noguchi, Alex Puccio, Angie Payne, Anna Stöhr, Austin Geiman, Brendan Mitchell, Carlo Traversi, Chelsea Rude, Daniel Woods, Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Francesca Metcalf, Garrett Gregor, Ian Dory, Isabelle Faus, Jesse Youngwerth, Jorg Verhoeven, Juliane Wurm, Kilian Fischhuber, Kyra Condie, Lisa Chulich, Matt Wilder, Megan Mascarenas, Michael O'Rourke, Nicholas Milburn, Nina Williams, Paul Robinson, Peter Dixon, Rob D'Anastasio, Rustam Gelmanov, Sean McColl, Shannon Russell, Shauna Coxsey, Tiffany Hensley, Tyler Youngwerth, Vasya Vorotnikov
Since I’ve only been posting bad news out of Yosemite, it seems like now would be a good time to post about something good like this new free route on Liberty Cap established by Lucho River and Cedar Wright:
Lucho Rivera and Cedar Wright have completed the first all-free ascent of the southwest face of Liberty Cap above Yosemite Valley. The two men redpointed the 16-pitch route, tentatively called Mahtah (the Native American name for Liberty Cap), on May 31, with Wright leading the majority of the crux pitches and Rivera following free.
Chris Van Leuven, in an excellent account of the accident that killed Mason Robinson on El Cap’s Muir Wall a few weeks ago:
Mason Robinson attended Columbia Falls High School and was on the cross-country team. He grew up exploring the mountains and rocks surrounding his home and became an experienced rock and ice climber. He was known for having robust lungs, which helped him link up multiple peaks in a day. He also sang and played the banjo.
Powerful photos from Cheyne Lempe.
- OkanaganDreams: Totally inspiring to go to new places and have a c...
- Adam Kaydub: his partner seemed more stoked than he did...
- Kevin: I started writing a rant about non-native speakers...
- zotch: is that the new beta for dreamtime since the hold ...
- AVG: Pinkies...? Rumor is they are coming back......
- Narc: This video is really well done...
- Bob Farrell (@bob_farrell): Complaining about the originality of a free behind...
- La Force Tranquille V15 – Nalle Hukkataival June 18, 2013
- 2nd Ascent Of La Force Tranquille (V15) By Nalle Hukkataival June 17, 2013
- Miss Schweiz June 17, 2013
- Alizee Dufraisse: Giving It All June 17, 2013
- Adam Ondra – Change – Backstage Movie June 16, 2013
- Tim Emmett Climbing Year Of The Snake (5.13b R) June 16, 2013
- The Understanding June 16, 2013