The plot thickens on Cerro Torre as Kennedy & Kruk’s “fair means” ascent of the Compressor route is quickly followed by David Lama’s first free ascent. Lama posted this update on his Facebook page:
I can’t believe it… For more than three years I was driven by the idea of freeclimbing the Compressor route on Cerro Torre and now this dream has become true!
My partner Peter Ortner and I started on January 19th from El Chalten and hiked in to Nipo Nino, our first camp. The next morning we climbed up to the Col de la Paciencia, rested there for a few hours and then started our attempt at around 1pm. We climbed to the start of the Bolt Traverse, but instead of turning right, we went straight up on the technically difficult arete, a few meters left of the Salvaterra crack. I took a couple of falls, until I figured out the right sequence and then was able to send the pitch on my second try from the belay. A few pitches higher we reached the Iced Towers, where we picked a small ledge into an icefield to bivi. Early the next morning we climbed to the start of the headwall. The fact that Hayden and Jason had chopped Maestri’s bolts a couple of days ago made my endeavour even more challenging, especially mentally as the protection was poor and I had to do long run outs. Climbing on hollow and loose flakes we followed the original Compressor route for three pitches. About 20 meters below the compressor we traversed to the right and then reached a system of cracks and corners that lead us to the summit. Climbing the route in alpine style took us 24 hours from the Col.
To me this first free ascent of the south east ridge of Cerro Torre is the end to the probably greatest adventure I experienced in my life so far. I’m especially proud having it done without adding any bolts. I learned a lot during the past years and climbing in this amazing mountain range has simply been great. Realizing dreams – it couldn’t be any better!
As Lama indicated, the removal of over 100 bolts by Kennedy and Kruk caused him some unanticipated difficulty in his free climbing efforts. The removal of those bolts also stirred up quite the controversy down in El Chalten as Kennedy and Kruk were not well-received upon their return to town. Upon arrival they were met by an angry mob and questioned by police as outlined in this google-translated interview with Kruk, Kennedy, Colin Haley and Rolando Garibotti.
Chopped bolts from Cerro Torre
It will be interesting to get more information from Kennedy and Kruk once they get back to the States. Did they know that Lama was also making an attempt on the line this season? Given the reaction, do they have any regrets? How much is Kruk hoping this Cerro Torre attention makes people forget about this video?
Judging from the “I bet he pooped his pants” jokes on Supertopo about Kruk and the angry mob, it sounds like people still aren’t forgetting about that video.
That said, I feel like the fact that Lama’s ascent took place without the headwall bot ladder makes it all that much more impressive, especially in light of his intention to rap-bolt that same wall last year. I think its worth wondering whether we would have ever even known if the wall goes free on clean gear without the chopping having taken place. Finally, I find it more than a little ironic that David Lama is the one that comes out looking the cleanest this year on Cerro Torre.
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I’m surprised it took this long to chop the thing.
The internet shit storm will certainly be entertaining. But it’s all mostly inconsequential. Route development is anarchy (route stripping too). The people out there doing it get to the make the decisions, whether that’s putting in the bolts or stripping them. I just wonder if someone will have the balls to go up there and re-drill the original path through the headwall.
Bolts go in, bolts go out. The sun also rises…
P.S. Maestri didn’t even summit, correct?
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The thread over on Supertopo is at over 800 posts and counting, though to be honest the last few pages have been less and less on topic.
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What right does any climber have to bolt a mountain or chop an exisitng bolt? Area have ethical standards and usually some authority on the matter. I live in an area where bolts are not ethical. as a climber i am there to climb. i don’t bolt and if i see one it is up to me to clip it or move on. it’s my perogative. no one that previously climbed Cerro Torre necessarily had to clip a bolt. it’s their perogative. and if the community voted to leave the existing bolts then climbers should certainly respect the ethical standards/decisions of that area. two wrongs don’t make a right….chopping bolts or placing more bolts are both wrong. kudos to Lama for learning from his previous mistakes and sending that bitch. shame on Kennedy and Kruk for not respecting the areas consensus decision and acting selfish. just my opinion
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Chopping bolts for ego is inherently stupid, however The Compressor Route was a monstrosity and deserved to die. I only wish ALL the bolts were pulled so we can start over.
If YOU can’t climb it with out the bolts YOU can climb something else, Cerro Torre isn’t a sport crag.
Props to Kennedy and Kurk for doing the right thing despite adversity and props to Lama for redeeming himself from last years clusterfuck but the work isn’t over, CHOP IT ALL!
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Good example of the USA way, I go where I want and I do what I want.
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That’s funny Joe, since Kruk is Canadian and the “do what I want” bolts were put there by an Italian. But, please, don’t let facts knock you off your perch.
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Do what i want any where ? thats not the ideal they followed, i think”. They did what many climbers from all around the world think its the proper way to live a mountain like cerro torre… and the result is cuestionable in fact that maybe they didnt anounce their ideas to clean the routes. that depends the ethics of each one.
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Do what i want any where ? thats not the ideal they followed, i think”. They did what many climbers from all around the world, think its the proper way to live a mountain like cerro torre… and the result is cuestionable in fact that maybe they didnt anounce their ideas to clean the routes. that depends the ethics of each one.
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American idiot followed by the blind Canadian. It says alot of how bad the youth is today. Me, me, me, me, me. Old styles and new styles. I look forward to owning alot of bolts from the routes of these two idiots that I plan on chopping every chance I get 🙂
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