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CEC Canadian Bouldering Nationals 2015

→ Behind The Founding Of The Bighorn Climber’s Coalition∞

Posted September 17, 2013 at 8:46 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Nice piece on DPM about an important step being taken to form a climber’s coalition for the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming which are home to the increasingly popular Ten Sleep Canyon. Once an area you just heard rumors about¹, Ten Sleep has become one of the most popular summer climbing destinations in the U.S. and non-climbing land managers have started to take notice. Forming a group to represent climber’s interest in the region is a great step.

This is also a good time to give props to DPM editor Mikey Williams who, unlike yours truly, is actually a pretty good climber in his own right.
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Most recently he climbed Masters of the Universe, a 5.14c in Ten Sleep. Nice work!

I recall hearing about it back in 2001 while visiting the Wild Iris ↩

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Mike Williams

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Ten Sleep Canyon

Boulder Flood

Posted September 16, 2013 at 9:18 am · Comments { 2 } ·

What else is there to say about the flooding that has taken place all along Colorado’s Front Range the past few days that hasn’t already been said?

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Colorado

adidas Rockstars 2013 Live

Posted September 13, 2013 at 10:38 am · Comments { 26 } ·

Tune in here Saturday, September 14th at 1:15 PM EDT to catch Finals of the 2013 adidas Rockstars live from the Porsche Arena in Stuttgart, Germany

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Video Friday – 9/13/2013

Posted September 13, 2013 at 8:06 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Some thoughts on the live interview project I worked on last week as well as the highest rated videos of the past week

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→ Why Do Women Cry At The Crag?∞

Posted September 12, 2013 at 2:40 pm · Comments { 24 } ·

Paige Claassen:

Over the last few months, I’ve found myself sitting at the base of a project, crying, more and more often. Crying over a rock climb is the worst.
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The actual crying, reflecting on the crying after I cry, and the dread of knowing that if I fall I will probably cry – these are all humiliating to admit.
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Crying about a rock climb is even more disgraceful when all day, as I fall and cry and fall and cry, I watch people in the land below who are simply trying to survive. How can I put so much effort and value into something that in reality means so little?
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The way each of us expresses our emotions may be different, but there’s no doubt that climbing has the ability to generate strong emotional responses in each of us. As for me, I don’t recall ever crying while climbing, but in my younger days I know I reacted to failure in ways that make me want to cry just thinking about it today.

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Paige Claassen

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→ Man And Superman∞

Posted September 12, 2013 at 10:01 am · Comments { 15 } ·

Malcolm Gladwell, writing for The New Yorker:

What we are watching when we watch élite sports, then, is a contest among wildly disparate groups of people, who approach the starting line with an uneven set of genetic endowments and natural advantages. There will be Donald Thomases who barely have to train, and there will be Eero Mäntyrantas, who carry around in their blood, by dumb genetic luck, the ability to finish forty seconds ahead of their competitors. Élite sports supply, as Epstein puts it, a “splendid stage for the fantastic menagerie that is human biological diversity.” The menagerie is what makes sports fascinating.
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But it has also burdened high-level competition with a contradiction.
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We want sports to be fair and we take elaborate measures to make sure that no one competitor has an advantage over any other. But how can a fantastic menagerie ever be a contest among equals?
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Fortunately, climbing isn’t popular or lucrative enough for performance enhancing drugs to be a big part of the conversation, but it is a sport where people’s physical differences—and the inherent advantages and disadvantages therein—are always on display to give you an excuse something to think about while your tall friend hikes your project.

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→ Maybe Alex Megos Is Human After All?∞

Posted September 12, 2013 at 8:20 am · Comments { 0 } ·

In many ways German phenom Alex Megos seems like a robot sent from another planet to climb all our hardest routes and boulder problems without making much of a fuss about it, but this interview with Vertical Life gives at least one hint that he might be human:

You have already achieved an incredible amount but what is the facet of your climbing that you think you most need to work on?

Crack climbing. I was in Indian Creek last year on my road trip with my friend Peter Würth and I barely could climb a 5.
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12- crack. In every other area that’s my warming up grade.

Based on the one time I saw him climbing even 5.12- is too easy for his sport climbing warm up.

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