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First 5.14 By 10-Year-Old Jonathan Hörst

First 5.14 By 10-Year-Old Jonathan Hörst

Posted March 11, 2013 at 6:05 pm · Comments { 15 } ·

Jonathan Hörst ticks his first 5.14 before he hits age 11

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Cristian Brenna Interview

Posted March 11, 2013 at 12:49 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Lots of great perspective from Italian legend Cristian Brenna in this excellent interview by Andrew Bisharat including this nugget dispelling what I think is a common misconception about many sponsored climbers:

You see a lot of climbers with badges sewn onto their pants, which gives the impression that they are professionals, but they get like five carabiners and some shoes. Yeah, they are sponsored but they don’t get money.

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The Bridge Of Ashes (V15) By Dave Graham

The Bridge Of Ashes (V15) By Dave Graham

Posted March 9, 2013 at 12:34 am · Comments { 2 } · Photo: Via Dave Graham's Instagram

Dave Graham has completed his long term project at Nicky’s Boulders AKA Elkland in Estes Park, CO just in time to avoid the impending snow storm set to hit Colorado’s Front Range.
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Dubbed The Bridge Of Ashes, this proposed V15 problem is the one Graham mentioned in his post earlier this week. I guess those sit-ups must have really paid off!

Look for video of the send in the near future, but until then enjoy a few pictures over at The Island.

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Is There Anything This Kid Can’t Do?

Posted March 6, 2013 at 9:48 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Looking back in my archives this morning I noticed a critical lapse in my posts about a certain climber:  Japan’s Toru Nakajima.  Prior to 2013 began he had already had stunning successes on the gritstone at age 15, repeated a number of hard boulder problems in Colorado, sport climbed up to 5.14+ and repeated Dai Koyamada’s Tokoyo (V15).

2013 is beginning in much the same way for Nakajima as he makes his first visit to the forests of Fontainebleau.  Already he’s ticked off problems like The Big Island (V15), Gecko Assis (V14), The Traphouse (V14), The Traphouse Short (V13, flash) and more.

UKC has a good interview with him from late last year which gives more background on this impressive young climber.

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Big Island (V15) And More By Chris Schulte

Posted March 5, 2013 at 10:41 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Fresh off a side trip to Switzerland that saw him repeat problems like The Dagger (V14), Chris Schulte returned to Fontainebleau where he finished off Nalle Hukkataival’s The Realist (V14) and his long-term project Vincent Pochon’s The Big Island (V15).  For someone who enjoys climbing compression problems as much as Schulte does, this is surely a tick for the lifetime list.
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 Well done.

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Rock & Rave

Posted February 28, 2013 at 8:42 am · Comments { 3 } ·

DPM was in Atlanta over the weekend for the highly successful Rock & Rave fundraiser held at Stone Summit.  With the help of celebrities like Chris Sharma, Kurt Smith and Hans Florine, about $36,000 was raised for the Access Fund, the Southeastern Climbers Coalition and the Carolina Climbers’ Coalition.

Idea for next year:  put the ABS Nationals broadcast up during the event and have people bid money on how many times things like “Asana moment” or “she’s got blank for days” or “that climber is brave and humble” are said.

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Another 5.14 For Young Drew Ruana

Posted February 27, 2013 at 9:59 am · Comments { 33 } ·

13-year-old Drew Ruana has redpointed another 5.
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14a at Smith Rock, OR, this time repeating Scarface after about 15 tries.  This is already Drew’s 4th 5.14!  Video of the ascent can be seen here.

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